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Absynthe

It’s housed in the world’s tallest residential tower but there are no views at Absynthe – unless, that is, you count the wonders on your plate. The ground floor interior is sophisticated, a mood that matches the food, which has a Gallic sultriness: French-raised Petrossian Baeri caviar; Périgord truffle; a long drinks list with gems such as a 1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill. Trust the chef. A prawn “pocket” filled with cabbage and Saint Agur in a seaweed broth tastes more harmonious than it sounds. Ditto a cured ocean trout teamed with white-chocolate cannelloni and pomegranate reduction. Lobster carpaccio surprises but a pistachio millefeuille with caramel ice-cream lacks oomph. Overall, though, the experience is impressive with innovative combinations constructed with elegance and restraint. Add to this formal but friendly service and you may become addicted.