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Bécasse

The depth of talent at Bécasse, whether it’s waiting, wine or cooking, is considerable, from chef/front of house partners Justin and Georgia North down to the plate-runners. Depth of taste on those plates, meanwhile, and the depth of vision that conceives them, is what separates the Bécasse brand of mod-Euro from its competitors. The richness of a smoked duck egg, barely set, matched with notes of cumin and corn in a mousseline, and sprinkled with salty jamón Ibérico crumbs has flavour for days. Poached blue-eye tests faith with red wine noodle, braised veal cheek and sea urchin butter accompaniments, but the clarity of the fish still comes out on top. Desserts are refined and not without edge – a slightly deconstructed banana crème brûlée, say, with salted peanut brittle. The room is muted, the food and wine offer is emphatic: Bécasse continues to yoke passion to refinement.