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Bécasse

Is it Justin North’s mastery of technique or his obsession with the primacy of produce that makes Bécasse such a memorable night out? The royale of spanner crab at first seems to be an argument for kitchen wizardry, all silken of custard and purée of pea, but on the palate it’s the freshness of the crab that reigns. Roasting veal in coffee and clay seems counter-intuitive, and yet the approach ultimately produces a juicy result that underscores the milkiness of the meat alongside confit potatoes and caramelised witlof. Dessert, though, shows the hand of man (or pastry chef) clearly in the likes of a baked apple “tart” that meanders all over the plate in caramels, crisps, jubes, sorbets and other iterations. Against a polished, rather corporate backdrop the drilled floor team manage rigor without the mortis, and their wit and wine-smarts bring life to each service.