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Becco

With its terrazzo floors, its evocative laneway location and one of the best restaurant bars in town, Becco continues to deliver Italian atmospherics in spades. More than 10 years since opening, however, it seems to be settling into solid Italian bistro mode, forsaking its former zeitgeisty trendsetter approach. Service is also not as sharp as it once was, and the music more suited to a suburban pizzeria, but the menu remains mostly on the mark. A rough-hewn beef carpaccio shows an understanding of the classics; snapper served with clams, beans and rice demonstrates beautiful balance and texture; and a rich, sticky dish of pig’s tail with bone marrow and peperonata is excellent comfort food. There are some cooking wobbles – an overcooked veal cutlet, for example – but they are the exception. The well-balanced wine list, with its generous by-the-glass offerings, is as strong and interesting as ever.