NOTE ON PRICES
Wine producers and their distributors are asked to supply the recommended retail price for each wine tasted. Where applicable, we run recommended retail prices for both Australia and New Zealand. Prices may vary depending on the outlet. If a wine is not distributed in one or other of the countries, the local price will not be given. However, it may be possible to order through an overseas distributor.
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Best Buy Wines (Apr/May 09): imports $25 and over
Our panel – Max Allen, Peter Bourne, Bob Campbell MW, Peter Forrestal, Huon Hooke and Jeremy Oliver – recommend great-value wines from home and further afield.
2005 Château Croix de Thomas, St-Georges St-Emilion (France), A$25
From the same stable of Bordeaux properties run by the Vialard family of Château Cissac, this has both a classic savoury quality that should satisfy lovers of traditional claret as well as enough ripe fruit (characteristic of the 2005 vintage) to appeal to the staunchest supporter of New World reds. A blend of two-thirds merlot and one-third cabernet sauvignon, there is some excellent plummy richness in the middle of the tongue, balanced by dark, chocolate-powder tannins and a bone-dry, grainy finish. MA
2005 Le Pigeoulet des Brunier Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, Southern Rhône, (France), A$27
The Brunier family own a clutch of properties in the South of France, most notably Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Vieux Telegraphe. This red blend is sourced from the Vin de Pays de Vaucluse appellation just south of Châteauneuf. Winemaker Daniel Brunier has added more cabernet sauvignon than usual (10 per cent) to the blend of grenache (80 per cent), cinsaut (5 per cent) and syrah (5 per cent). A dense red with blackberry pastille and licorice flavours. PF
2005 Croft Quinta da Roeda Vintage Port, Oporto (Portugal), A$110
This hand-crafted (well, foot trod, at least) comes from a single vineyard, Quinta da Roeda, owned by Croft since 1875. The Douro saw a drought in 2005 with a short rain event saving the vines from excessive stress. However, the wine is surprisingly elegant with beautiful aromatics of violet, cedar and mulberry with a lift of spicy spirit. The palate is equally fine with lots of dark berry and licorice flavours, beautifully integrated tannins and a gentle squeeze of spirit on the finish. Will undoubtedly open well in 2026. PB
2005 Château St Jean Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County (USA), A$40
This is part of a selection of American wines being imported by Foster’s Wine Estates. This and the more expensive Bordeaux-style blend, Cinq Cépages, are excellent reds. The cabernet is a clean, vibrant wine with varietal dark-berry fruit on the nose and the palate supported by a background of spicy, toasty oak and a lick of firm tannins, which enhances structure. It’s tight and correct. It drinks well now and should do so for at least a decade more. HH
2007 Salomon Undhof Pfaffenberg Riesling, Wachau (Austria), A$36
This 200+ year-old Austrian producer has an Australian branch, Salomon Estate near McLaren Vale, although the southern-hemisphere winery only makes red wine. Sealed with a glass stopper this is a typically (for Austria) dry style with hints of spice, citrus blossom and slate/mineral. Very pure with a delicate, silken texture and lengthy finish. Subtle wine that shows impressive power. Very classy riesling. BC
2007 Stags’ Leap Viognier, Napa Valley (USA), A$30
So many viogniers, including many from the US, present themselves virtually as a caricature of the variety, being so exaggerated in taste and texture that they become quite impossible to drink. The reason I like this wine is simple – it’s right at the deliciously fragrant, almost racy end of the spectrum for this variety. It’s spicy and waxy, with a mineral fragrance of citrus and melon backed by a faint herbal presence. Its restrained flavours of apricot, melon and citrus finish with a lively acidity and freshness. JO