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Best Buy Wines (Apr/May 09): imports $25 and under

2007 Vintage Cellars Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley (France), A$10
I’m not sure who should be more concerned: the Australian white wine producers watching as their customers desert them in favour of Kiwi sav blanc, or the Australian red wine producers who have to compete with French wines as delicious as this at ridiculously low prices. I tried to find fault in this wine, but I couldn’t. It is, simply, a textbook red Côtes du Rhône, full of wild berries and garrigue perfume and savoury deliciousness. It’s an absolute steal. MA

2007 Domaine St Andrieu Côtes de Provence, Provence (France), A$24
It’s interesting to see many of France’s best vignerons being attracted to its South: Jean-Paul and Nancy Gignon of St Julien’s Château Talbot have transformed the winery and vineyards of Domaine St Andrieu in the Var. It’s directly north of Toulon in the foothills of the Alps, at an elevation of 380 metres. The rosé, which bears the Côtes de Provence appellation, is a blend of grenache, syrah and cinsaut that is clean, lively and pure with restrained savoury characters and a wonderful refreshing dry finish. PF

2007 Umani Ronchi Villa Bianchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico DOC, Marches (Italy), A$17
Verdicchio is the native white variety of the Marches region on the Adriatic Coast of Italy. Verdicchio dates back to the 18th century in the hills surrounding Jesi, where it enjoys long sunshine hours, cool nights and sea breezes. Intense yet fine floral aromas of orange blossom and pink grapefruit give way to a clean, bright palate with a soft, almost creamy texture. A hint of almond kernel astringency helps shape the wine while a lip-smacking acidity adds a tingle to the finish. PB

2007 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec, Mendoza (Argentina), A$16
Mendoza is Argentina’s pre-eminent wine region where malbec is arguably better than anywhere else on the planet. This remarkably priced example is a new arrival to Australian shores. The colour is promisingly deep and the aromas are redolent of dark plum and blackberry, with some vanilla and caramel edges. It’s solid in the mouth; intensely flavoured and has a savoury, almost chewy tannin texture. The finish is long and emphatic, and at 14.4 per cent is not overly reliant on alcohol. Impressive stuff. HH

2007 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône (France), NZ$25
I knew little about this Rhône producer when I first tasted its excellent rosé. The website revealed that the property has a vineyard area of 1250 hectares, an increasing percentage of syrah and grenache are used in the blend and the average vine age is 35 to 40 years. It has an English winemaker who wisely married the founder’s grand-daughter. My tasting notes read: “Full-bodied with candied cherry, spice and old furniture flavours. Gutsy rosé with a bone-dry finish.” BC

2006 Auroch, Toro (Spain), A$24
Although it initially opens rather reductive and raw, this plump and chewy young tempranillo begins to reveal a generous spread of dark, sour-edged plum and berry-like fruit underpinned by a fine, drying spine of chalky tannins. It retains its rustic background of meaty, earthy complexity, but finishes quite firm and savoury with length and brightness, enhanced by refreshing acidity. Representative of a style we are still unlikely to experience in Australian wine. JO