NOTE ON PRICES
Wine producers and their distributors are asked to supply the recommended retail price for each wine tasted. Where applicable, we run recommended retail prices for both Australia and New Zealand. Prices may vary depending on the outlet. If a wine is not distributed in one or other of the countries, the local price will not be given. However, it may be possible to order through an overseas distributor.
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Best Buy Wines (Aug/Sept 09): $15 and under
Our panel – Max Allen, Peter Bourne, Bob Campbell MW, Peter Forrestal, Huon Hooke and Jeremy Oliver – recommend great-value wines from home and further afield.
2007 Buller Beverford Shiraz, Swan Hill, A$13
Sometimes, when the crop yields aren’t too large, the shiraz vineyards around Swan Hill on the Murray can produce gutsy, satisfyingly dark and full-bodied red wine at very reasonable prices. This is a particularly warm-hearted – even pleasingly rustic – example: deep, bold purple colour, a solid core of ripe berry fruit and some grippy, wild tannins. Best consumed out of generously proportioned glasses standing around a backyard, waiting for the chops to grill, having a good old natter. MA
2007 Jacobs Creek Three Vines Shiraz Grenache Sangiovese, South-East Australia, A$15
Three Vines is a newish range for Pernod Ricard with one lesser-known variety in three making for a distinctive blend. This was highly commended in the Sydney International Top 100 and worked well with a dish of flathead fillets with red wine and puy lentils. The sangiovese gives a savoury character to the blend and this resonated with the earthiness of the lentils. It’s a vibrant rosé with strawberry and redcurrant flavours, fresh and clean with a whisper of sweetness to finish. PF
2007 d’Arenberg The Stump Jump Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale, A$12/NZ$15
Chester Osborn makes an amazing range of wines – from his iconic Dead Arm Shiraz to his tribute to his father d’Arry’s Original, and this delightful entry-level red. Like d’Arry’s Original, it’s a Rhône-style blend with grenache leading the way with its juicy, sweet red-berry fruit flavours while the shiraz offers structure and style and mourvèdre adds a touch of earthy funk. It’s not a sophisticated wine, just a damn good drink. PB
2008 Baritone Maxim 1000 Cabernet Shiraz, Riverland, A$11/1 litre
Produced by Kingston Estate in the Murray Valley, this is a tasty, savoury-style red blend which has been consistently good value for money. Don’t look for anything dark or powerful: it’s a light, straightforward but very gluggable red for everyday drinking, and would sit comfortably alongside a barbecue. The fruit flavours are already showing some maturity, which is a plus with reds at this end of the market. The texture is smooth and supple and it scores highly for drinkability. Not for cellaring. HH
2006 Kaimira Estate Unoaked Chardonnay, Nelson, NZ$12
The chardonnay market is a little flat at present, which explains why Kaimira are still trying to sell a three-year-old unoaked example. It presumably also explains why the wine is priced, shall we say, realistically. It’s a mellow chardonnay with citrus, white peach, toast and creamy corn flavours. Quite concentrated with plenty of weight and surprising complexity considering it’s unoaked. Showing the benefit of bottle age – this wine is truly a bargain. BC
2007 Hardy’s Oomoo Shiraz, McLaren Vale, A$15/NZ$20
McLaren Vale shiraz should be fruit-driven, smooth and succulent, with intense, sour-edged flavours of berries, cherry and plum underpinned by smooth tannins, like this wine. It’s rarely at its best as an over-oaked style, since it naturally becomes medium- to full-bodied in weight. It can be peppery and spicy, with musky undertones of cloves and cinnamon – floral even. This fine McLaren Vale shiraz is tightly knit with measured chocolate/vanilla oak and pliant drying tannins. It’s delightful. JO