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Best Buy Wines (Aug/Sept 2008): imports $25 and over

2004 Borie de Maurel La Féline, Minervois La Livinière (France), A$26
The Minervois appellation in south-west France has not traditionally been the source of many outstanding wines, but new-wave producers such as Michel Escande at Borie de Maurel are turning that reputation on its head with brilliant wines like this. A blend of grenache, syrah and carignan, it’s a brooding wine with glossy, succulent black berries balanced by sweet leather and wild garrigue herbs. I love the gothic Borie de Maurel labels too – and the wonderfully over-the-top website (www.boriedemaurel.fr) is even better. MA

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad, Penedès (Spain), A$40
Based in the Penedès, just south of Barcelona, Segura Viudas has been part of the Freixenet empire since the early 1980s and currently produces three classy bubblies: the Brut Nature, the Vintage Brut (both on lees for three years) and this Reserva, given five years on lees. It is made from the Spanish varieties macabeo and parellada, which give remarkable finesse. This is pristine and intensely yeasty with persistent lemony acidity. It’s tight, almost lean in structure and finishes crisp, bright and dry. PF

2001 Domaine de Chevalier Grand Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan (France), A$150
Domaine de Chevalier is a 30-hectare property managed by the Bernard family and an often overlooked château of great quality and value that produces elegant, savoury reds and a dazzling classic Bordeaux blanc. This red from the much underrated 2001 vintage is a typical interpretation of the château’s style. Dense dark berry fruit flavours mingle with hints of cool earth, wood smoke and iodine. The palate is tightly woven with concentration yet impeccable finesse. A long, fine sinew of tannins carries the finish. PB

2005 Chanson Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses Premier Cru, Burgundy (France), A$80
The wines of the 250-year-old Burgundy negociant Chanson Pere & Fils are better than ever, due to the intervention of Champagne house Bollinger, which bought Chanson in 1999. The wines are well priced too. This has an earthy minerality which opens to reveal red berries, while the palate is tight and firm, lively and mineral, with taut structure and a clean, dry finish. It’s best served with food and has the potential to develop with five or six more years ageing. HH

2005 Torres Salmos, Priorat (Spain), NZ$47
A blend of syrah, carignan (cariñena) and grenache grown in a recently established vineyard. Although the blend of grape varieties is borrowed from the southern Rhône, the wine bears little resemblance to the French version. It is an altogether more serious red with dense licorice, dried dark fruit, anise/spice and strong French oak flavours. A solid tannic backbone guarantees longevity without making the flavours too inaccessible at this relatively youthful stage of the wine’s potentially long life. BC

NV Lallier Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Champagne (France), A$108
From a small Champagne house near Ay comes a very fine and creamy grand cru chardonnay. Its waxy, lightly toasty and lanolin-like fragrance of nougat, honey and creamy bakery-yeast reveals faint meaty undertones and suggestions of lavender and white flowers. Round and generous, with a smooth creaminess, it’s moderately long and tight-beaded, and finishes tight and savoury with nuances of almond, hazelnut and faintly green undertones. A finely balanced and harmonious wine. JO