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Best Buy Wines (Aug/Sept 2010)

$15 AND UNDER
2008 Re Wine Organic Shiraz, Barossa Valley, A$14
There’s a hierarchy to the three Rs of greener living, reduce, re-use and recycle: best is to reduce your consumption; try to re-use what you can; and if you can’t, then at least recycle it. The Re Wine business, which has stalls at the Preston and Vic markets in Melbourne and is online, has taken the middle R to heart: customers’ bottles are refilled with tasty drops from around the country. My pick is this full-flavoured, gutsy, blackberry-drenched organic Barossa shiraz. MA

2008 Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz, South Eastern Australia, A$15
Although Yellow Tail has been a huge success on the export market, it has only been in the past few years that the wines have been readily available domestically. What distinguishes Yellow Tail reds is the soft, lush texture, the sweetness of the fruit profile and the attractive oaky edge. This shiraz has a fair whack of fruit from McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and Wrattonbully. While supple and fleshy, it has ripe sweet blackberry, vanilla bean and mulberry flavours, good concentration and a pleasing approachability. PF

2008 Quarisa Johnny Q Shiraz, Padthaway, A$12/NZ$18
John Quarisa is not a well-known winemaking name – yet it should be. Quarisa worked with Jim Brayne at McWilliams for many years to build his winemaking skills. The culmination of his corporate career was winning the Jimmy Watson award for the 2003 Yellow Tail Premium Cabernet Sauvignon. Quarisa is now doing his own winemaking. This value-for-money shiraz is defined by its exuberant dark cherry and ripe plum fruit flavours. The tannins are mild with sweet oak adding to its drinkability. PB

2006 The Willows Vineyard Semillon, Barossa Valley, A$15
The Barossa is not the first region usually identified with Australian semillon but if the grapes are harvested reasonably early, like this one, the result can be excellent. It’s 12.5 per cent alcohol and while not a racy, Hunter-style, ageworthy classic, it’s very tasty right now after four years and should be drunk sooner rather than later. Candlewax and lightly toasty developed bouquet; soft and subtle in the mouth with good flavour and a touch of resiny regional character. Great value, and just a really nice drink. HH

2008 Durvillea Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, A$19/NZ$15
I suspect that any sauvignon blanc priced below $15 (and there are now many) will be regarded with often justified suspicion by wine buyers, particularly when it is from the patchy 2008 vintage. This example is a cut or three above the rest. Made by Astrolabe, one of the country’s top sauvignon blanc makers, it’s a light, fresh wine with gentle, aromatic cut-grass and lemongrass characters. Pure, delicate and appealing. A very good example from a vintage I normally avoid. Extremely good value at this price. BC

2008 Ferngrove Symbols Cabernet Merlot, Frankland River, A$15
Surprisingly stylish, elegant and finely crafted, this long and charmingly balanced red blend has a vibrant perfume of blackberry, dark cherry, plum and fresh cedary/vanilla oak backed by suggestions of dried herbs. It’s smooth and restrained, with a subtle but lively presence of black and red berry flavours neatly underpinned by a firmish but very fine spine of crunchy tannins. Simply brilliant value. JO

$20 AND UNDER
2009 Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, A$19
This wine has already attracted so many glowing reviews – as have previous vintages from the Hoddles crew – that you probably know all about it and may have even stocked up on a case or two. If not, here’s the drill: this is, simply, classically elegant, restrained, wheatmeal-and-lemon-pith, cool-climate Yarra chardonnay that’s worth twice the price. The complex, textural 2009 Hoddles 1er Pinot Blanc is also stunningly good, as are the Wickhams Road chardonnays. MA

2008 Punt Road Airlie Bank Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, A$18
The entry level Airlie Bank range from the Yarra’s Punt Road has been one of the finds of the year for me, offering value way in excess of the price point. The tight, lean and minerally 2008 Chardonnay and the pure and elegant 2007 Cabernet Merlot both impress, although this well-priced, quality pinot is a more amazing find. The 2008 Airlie Bank Pinot is fragrant with earthy, gamey aromas, intense redcurrant and black cherry flavours with the varietal lightness of touch, silky smooth texture and a gentle finish that lingers. PF

2009 Fraser Gallop Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, A$20
Fraser Gallop is considered one of Margaret River’s rising stars – no great surprise with veteran Clive Otto at the winemaking helm. Otto made his name at Vasse Felix before joining Fraser Gallop in 2006, where he’s hit the ground running with a slew of awards and medals. The 2009 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc is the epitome of the blend with juicy gooseberry and grapefruit flavours and a hint of oatmeal complexity from the small, barrel-fermented component. It’s drinking beautifully right now, though the 2010 is hot on its heels. PB

2009 Cockfighter’s Ghost Semillon, Hunter Valley, A$19
This is the second-label of the Pooles Rock winery, where Usher Tinkler plies his trade and makes a lovely semillon in what Len Evans used to call an each-way style. You can drink it now or keep it a while. Delicate, tangy lemon-essence aromas, which re-appear in the mouth where it’s light, soft and fruity, with a little phenolic dryness contributing to a clean finish. The aftertaste has lip-smacking dryness, and lingers well. Ready now but it could be cellared to advantage for another couple of years. Just 11 per cent alcohol, too. HH

2009 Black Estate Riesling, Waipara, A$35/NZ$19
Until 2008 Black Estate produced only pinot noir and chardonnay on their limestone-rich, hillside vineyard in Waipara. In 2008 they made their first riesling. It was an absolute knockout. This second vintage proves the first was not a fluke. Perhaps lacking some of the ethereal character of the 2008 wine this is nonetheless a lovely, luscious riesling in a medium style with honey, lime, stone-fruit and mineral flavours. Intense and long. The wine achieves terrific tension between acidity and sweetness. BC

2008 Barwang Shiraz, Hilltops, A$20
In the richer end of the spectrum, this sumptuous, dark-fruited shiraz is not without balance and integration. Lifted by scents of briar and pepper, its wild, spicy and densely packed bouquet of black and red plums and cherries is handsomely partnered by toasty cedar/mocha oak and backed by a hint of menthol. Soaking up its oak and supported by a firm, powdery extract, the firm, fine-grained palate is stained with intense flavours of dark, sour-edged fruits and slowly reveals its peppery, musky and meaty complexity. It finishes with length and freshness. JO

$30 AND UNDER
2009 Tim Smith Viognier, Adelaide Hills, A$27
This wine shone in a recent blind tasting of top-shelf Australian viognier, despite the fact that it isn’t a typical example of the variety, ie, it doesn’t have the fatness, oily texture or heady apricot perfume you find in so many viogniers. Instead, it’s beguilingly floral, pretty and full of lively minerality. Winemaker Tim Smith sourced the fruit from the biodynamic Kenton Hill vineyard, which also produces some stunning viognier under the Protero label. MA

2010 Hewitson Lu Lu Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills, A$22
It’s hard to imagine a white that more perfectly expresses Adelaide Hills sauvignon. Sourced from a single vineyard in the high, cool slopes of the Hills between Handorf and Mt Barker and named for owner, Dean Hewitson’s wife, Lou, it almost bursts with the exuberance of youth. Fragrantly floral with a hint of talc, this is fresh, clean and pure, with intense white tropical flavours. It’s powerful, weighty and tangy, finishing with fine, zippy acidity that refreshes. PF

2009 Glaetzer-Dixon Avancé Pinot Noir, Tasmania, A$28
Nick Glaetzer comes from the Barossa Valley, where his winemaking family is well known. He has finally settled in Tasmania, working with Alain Rousseau at Frogmore Creek and establishing his own label: Glaetzer-Dixon Family Winemakers. Avancé is his early-release pinot, crafted for immediate pleasure. It’s fresh and bright with raspberry and crushed-strawberry aromas, which are echoed on the palate. A fine thread of tannins interplays with a zing of refreshing acidity, leading to a clean, tight finale. PB

2009 Pikes Traditionale Riesling, Clare Valley, A$23
Neil Pike uses the word Traditionale to signify his regular riesling, while The Merle is his more ageworthy reserve bottling. This is an excellent young riesling that’s very well priced, and a style that drinks well now and will age happily for several years. Its lime, straw and hay aromas are very typical Clare Valley, while the palate is soft and smooth with the merest impression of sweetness giving some roundness and adding to its early drinkability. There’s very good fruit intensity and length in the mouth. HH

2008 Coopers Creek Chalk Ridge Syrah, Hawkes Bay, NZ$28
Made from grapes grown just south of Havelock North sited on a steep, north-facing amphitheatre strewn with fossilised limestone. The best fruit from the steepest part of the vineyard is co-fermented with a small amount (four per cent) of viognier from the same vineyard. Impressive syrah with strong, ripe sweet berry fruit flavours interwoven with black pepper, Oriental spices and classy oak. Complex wine with a great texture. BC

2007 Yalumba Hand Picked Shiraz + Viognier, Barossa, A$30/NZ$33
Pristine and carefully crafted, with genuine regional qualities and a finely interwoven viognier influence. Its meaty, spicy aromas of fresh blackberries, redcurrants and dark plums and polished cedar/vanilla oak are lifted by a fresh floral note. Smooth and spicy, its silky, succulent palate flaunts its vibrant, pastille-like flavours of dark fruits with smoky, ground coffee and dark-chocolate-like oak. Moderately firm, with a fine, pliant undercarriage, it finishes with elegance and charm. JO

IMPORTS $25 AND UNDER
2008 Gran Sasso Montepulciano D’Abbruzzo DOC, Abbruzzo (Italy), A$10
The people behind Hoddles Creek vineyard in the Yarra and Boccaccio Cellars in Melbourne, the d’Anna family, also have a thriving import business, shipping wines from Italy that often reach you, the wine lover, at seductively low prices. This is a cracking example of the montepulciano grape: dark purple in the glass, it’s bursting with glossy black plum fruit, but finishes with chewy tannins and snappy dryness, making it a great accompaniment to Friday night pizza or pasta. MA

2008 Carpineto Dogajolo, Tuscany (Italy), A$15
This is an entry-level wine from Tuscany that makes an ideal introduction to Italian reds or a perfect partner to your family’s version of spaghetti with bolognese. It’s a blend of sangiovese (about 70 per cent) and (mainly) cabernet sauvignon and quite funky on the nose, and so needs a vigorous swirl to tidy it up. There are some dried herb, wild thyme aromatics, a supple palate that is dense and chewy with savoury, sour cherry and dark plum flavours and ripe, gently gripping tannins. Tamed by that pasta dish. Exclusive to Dan Murphy’s. PF

2008 Georges Duboeuf Chiroubles, Beaujolais (France), A$24
It’s a real disappointment that Beaujolais has lost it sparkle over the past 20 years. Good Beaujolais is a delightful, unpretentious, easy-to-drink red, its simplicity part of the fun. This Chiroubles comes from the Beaujolais master, Georges Duboeuf, and shows all the characters of Chiroubles’ elevated site with a delicate perfume of ripe plums and maraschino cherries and generous mouthfilling flavours of the same fruits. Soft and slinky with a keen acidity, this is a joyful drink for a warm spring day. PB

2007 M Chapoutier Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône (France), A$17
It’s difficult to imagine better value than this in French red for drinking young. Walnut, spice, dried-herb aromas are very attractive and bucolic, and transport you to the southern Rhône countryside. There are hints of black fruits also in the nose and palate, while the wine is more savoury than fruity and all the more interesting for it. It’s not about shrill primary fruit; it’s a bit more subtle and intriguing than that. A touch of richness as well as elegance. From a top vintage: drink now and over the next six years. HH

2008 Santa Ema Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley (Chile), A$17/NZ$17
Santa Ema is a mid-sized family-owned winery that has produced wine in the Maipo Valley for more than 50 years. A heightened focus on quality inspired the construction of a state-of-the-art winery. This stylish cabernet sauvignon punches well above its weight. A distinctly varietal wine, it has a solid core of ripe blackberry flavours with cedar, black olive and spicy oak influences. Firmly structured red with strong, ripe tannins suggesting good cellaring potential. BC

2008 Joseph Mellot Sincérite Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre (France), A$22
Fruit-driven and austere, this rather chalky sauvignon blanc reveals a generous tangy presence of grapefruit, melon and gooseberry flavours. Its perfume is lifted by the suggestions of white flowers and minerals, while its palate is underpinned by a sherbet-like texture and wrapped in a crisp, tingling acidity. Savoury and briny, without any of the overt herbaceousness of most sauvignon blancs on the market today, it’s just crying out for a bowl of shellfish. JO

IMPORTS $25 AND OVER
2006 Solar Viejo Crianza Rioja, Laguardia (Spain), A$28
A couple of mouthfuls of this lovely, 100-per-cent tempranillo Rioja and the memories came flooding back. It tastes like the fleshy, warm-hearted young Riojas I drank in tapas bar after tapas bar whenI first visited the region a few years ago: wines that lubricate conversation and laughter. It also reminded me that one of the great strengths of the tempranillo grape is that it tastes so vinous, so satisfying, like some archetype of red wine. So I poured myself another glass. MA

2007 Vistamar Reserva Carmenère, Maipo Valley (Chile), A$27
Carmenère is a Bordeaux variety that all but disappeared there because of its susceptibility to disease. It was imported into Chile in the late 19th century where it was thought to be merlot until 1994. Since then, carmenère has enjoyed considerable popularity. This is sourced from Chile’s Central Valley and has lifted floral notes, is juicy and succulent with red cherry and redcurrant flavours, velvety texture and substantial ripe tannins. It has the depth and weight to age in the medium term, although it is approachable now. PF

2007 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG, Tuscany (Italy), A$47
The Selvapiano vineyards are in Rufina, a sub-region of Chianti, in the cool hills to the north-east of Florence. Sangiovese thrives in these cooler conditions, as seen with the singular focus on this wine, from the high-quality 2007 vintage. It’s quite perfumed with lots of red fruits – raspberry and dark cherry sweetly spiced with star anise and cloves. The palate is tight and restrained with a good depth of maraschino cherry fruit and a touch of licorice. The finish is fine and long. A wine for the medium term. PB

2008 Muri-Gries Alto Adige Lagrein, Trentino (Italy) A$36
This is a typical Italian red in the sense that it’s more about subtle, savoury complexities rather than simple primary fruit. It also has some weight and fleshiness, and is smooth and balanced on the nose and palate, with good texture that gives the wine a certain gravitas. It’s medium-bodied, but is a very satisfying mouthful of wine. Harmony, balance and length… it’s a wine that grows on you instead of winning you over with brute force. Just 13 per cent alcohol. HH

2007 Henri Bourgeois La Porte de L’Abbaye Pouilly-Fumé, Cher (France), NZ$45
Henri Bourgeois is known as a producer of top Sancerre but he also makes two wines from nearby Pouilly-Fumé as well as top sauvignon blanc and pinot noir from his winery in Marlborough. This heavyweight Pouilly-Fumé is the best I’ve tasted from his large stable of excellent labels. It’s an intense, powerful sauvignon blanc with strong mineral characters from Kimmeridgian Marl soils. The focus is on fruit flavour, although a small amount of the wine was fermented in oak barrels. BC

2007 Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas (France), A$39
Fine, dusty and elegant, but with a vibrant presence of luscious, juicy and finely controlled fruit, this smooth and supple wine can’t hide its New World influences. Scented with red and blue flowers, its spicy bouquet of raspberry, blueberry and cherry reveals undertones of baked earth and cedar. Long and silky, its marginally warm palate (which almost entirely absorbs its 15 per cent alcohol) is deftly supported by fine, bony tannins, finishing quite savoury and stony, with lingering suggestions of cloves and licorice. JO

WINES TO CELLAR
2008 Warramate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley, A$23
The Warramate vineyard, celebrating its 40th birthday, is in the heart of prime grape-growing country, with Yarra Yering to the north and Coldstream Hills to the south. This cabernet, made from younger vines on the Warramate property, is not only an excellent expression of classically elegant, refined Yarra cabernet that needs a few years in the bottle to fill out and deepen, it also, at this price, offers quite exceptional value for money. MA

2008 Ulithorne Paternus Cabernet Shiraz, McLaren Vale, A$35
The Paternus is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (70 per cent) and shiraz (30 per cent) from 40-year-old vines aged in 50-per-cent new French oak for 18 months. The 2008 Paternus Cabernet Shiraz is fine, elegant and medium-bodied, showing subtle bramble and blackberry flavours, silky texture and ripe, slinky tannins. It’s quite different from the plush, seductive reds that you’d expect from McLaren Vale; more restrained and savoury; crying out to be consumed with food – and, for all that, absolutely delicious. PF

2006 Carlei Estate Nebbiolo, Heathcote, Victoria, A$80
Sergio Carlei is one of the wine community’s great characters, with a larrikin streak. However, when it comes to winemaking, he gets very serious. And this is a serious nebbiolo, sourced from biodynamic vineyards in the Heathcote region. Like all good nebbiolos, it’s as much about its perfume as its palate – with faded rose petal and violet aromas backed by warm earth and licorice. The palate is sweet-fruited with fine-grained tannins, which unfold to a long, ethereal finish, concluding with a crunch of tannins. PB

2006 Pfeiffer Christopher’s VP, Rutherglen, A$24
Chris Pfeiffer is being coy with the name: Australians aren’t supposed to use the word ‘Port’ any more, but Pfeiffer upholds the tradition of making vintage Port-style wine in Rutherglen, blended from Portuguese varieties. The fresh, bright aromas are of blackberry, raspberry, spices and dark plum, with a highnote of floral brandy spirit. In the mouth it’s elegant, not too big nor excessively tannic but fleshy, balanced and seamless. A beautiful VP style, with a relatively low-Baumé and a dry finish. Screw-capped. Drink now to 2035+. HH

2008 Rippon Tinker’s Field Pinot Noir, Central Otago, A$95/NZ$95
Tinker’s Field is a unique plot of eastward-facing land with clay reefs running laterally through fine schist gravels. It is home to the oldest vines in Rippon’s vineyard and produces this, their flagship wine. It is predictably the densest of Rippon’s four pinot noir labels from the 2008 vintage. Strong red cherry, spice and oak flavours with subtle savoury influences. Richly textured wine with power and complexity. Rippon’s Pinot Noir has a proven ability to age gracefully. BC

2008 Tim Adams Reserve Riesling, Clare Valley, A$35
A very fine, essential expression of modern riesling. Scented with a piercing and deeply fragrant perfume of lime juice, lemon rind, white flowers, talc and fresh apple, it’s especially pure and penetrative. While it has a roundness and juiciness in mid palate, it’s tightly cut and sculpted, delivering a bright, crystalline purity of concentrated fruit over a fine, chalky texture down its entire length, before finishing with crispness and austerity. A decade or more is clearly in order! JO