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Café Di Stasio

The near-legendary Café Di Stasio’s stuccoed walls and levitating Bill Henson portrait, its streamlined (and unashamedly preferential) service and perpetual twilight ambience elicit an almost Pavlovian response in its loyal regulars. Ties loosen and tongues wag. And the food’s no slouch either. Take the lobster omelette: a crêpe-thin envelope of seasoned egg stuffed with lobster flesh and doused in a magical bisque spiked with brandy. Or the deceptively simple spaghetti saltati, al dente pasta with a gluey, gorgeous pork and veal ragù. The voluminous wine list is a serious (and seriously expensive) tome that’s never short of the perfect drop. If you have only one dessert, make it torta di vaniglia, a white chocolate and mascarpone tart of sweet crunchy pastry topped with vanilla, cinnamon and star anise-infused mascarpone. Di Stasio: changeless yet always different.