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Circa, the Prince

Sure, it’s lost a little magic since the Andrew McConnell era, but Circa still delivers A-list excitement. The dining room pulses with glamour, with white leather seating, sheer drapes, catwalk spotlights and bold floral arrangements (as this guide went to print, Circa was undergoing refurbishment). The same attention to detail pervades Liam O’Brien’s wine list of local and imported vintages and an impressive Champagne selection, and Matthew Wilkinson’s culinary flourishes. One entrée, a broken tartlet of salt cod – a meticulously arranged plate of sliced cod nestled in pastry shards and flecked with fried oysters, parmesan purée and flowers from Circa’s kitchen garden – is a work of art. A main course of lemon confit chicken is juicy and flavoursome, a study in how to cook great chook. Not every dish hits a high note – the tropical fruit pavlova is underwhelming – but when Wilkinson’s on song, his food is a pleasure.