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Comme Kitchen

Last century, this grand Victorian building housed the Naval and Military Club. Today, the opulently reworked white-on-white space is hedonists’HQ. Moneyed professionals jostle at the wine room’s long marble bar, or perch on the dining room’s leather banquettes for Dan Southern’s finely worked French bistro food. The share-friendly tapas menu has made way for a conventional three-course Gallic approach. Look for things such as deeply flavoured shallot and thyme velouté and hot camembert beignet (an excellent excuse to eat deep-fried cheese), a composed charcuterie plate showcasing rabbit, duck and pork rillettes and salumi, and fried John Dory fillets with wilted spinach, squiggly spätzle and burnt butter, perhaps with a side of superbly crisp, salty fries and aïoli. Seamless, friendly service and an impressive, but not intimidating, wine list make this a memorable experience.