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Courgette

One of a trio of Canberra eateries owned by classically trained chef James Mussillon, Courgette has locked in the corporate expense account and “special occasion” crowd. The impressive and value-laden wine list reflects the clientele, while service is professional and generally attentive. The food, meanwhile, aims high and care is evident in the design of the menu and choice of ingredients. But, occasionally, the dishes can seem a trifle overworked. John Dory comes paired with a combination of chorizo and parmesan gnocchi that’s hard to fault. Confit rabbit ballottine with rare-roasted venison and sticky port sauce, on the other hand, is on the over-busy side. Desserts, too, could do with more care; crème brûlée is too soft at the centre and over-flamed on top. All the essentials are here, so why not let the ingredients and Mussillon’s expertise speak for themselves?