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Darley’s

Dining at Darley’s is all about the season, observed both in the weather sweeping across the mountains outside and in the ingredients on your plate. At the edge of the Jamison Valley, next to the iconic Three Sisters, Hugh Whitehouse translates the bounty of regional producers into sophisticated country cooking served in an unstuffy Victorian atmosphere. As you’d hope, fish and game are prevalent, in entrées of Macleay Valley rabbit, its loin roasted and bound in prosciutto, and in a smoked rainbow trout salad featuring tossed shaved fennel, artichoke, grapefruit, pickled cucumber, feta and nasturtiums. The textural layers continue in a main course of melting beef cheeks cooked for six hours and served with spätzle. The wine list boasts some lovely boutique producers and benchmark drops, several by the half-bottle. Settle into a dessert of warm chocolate tart and stay the night.