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Enoteca

The restaurant attached to Adelaide’s Italian Centre continues to evolve with new talent in the kitchen. Chef Brent Kemble-Beech is early in his tenure, but his preference for a contemporary cooking style, characterised by multiple flavours and artistic plating, is already clear. More often than not it works. Butter-poached quail breast and seared scallops are brought together by a parsnip purée, while a rolled Maryland, stuffed with leek, lifts chicken to a starring role rather than a menu filler. The pork and sweetbreads is less convincing. But more traditional fare, such as the gnocchi with a carbonara sauce of cured pork cheek, egg yolk and cream, is handled with care. Share the super-rich chocolate and orange dessert plate alongside first-rate coffee. The wine list finds space for more than 20 Italians, which helps make up for the limited selection of some mainstream varietals.