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Gills Diner

Gills Diner does discerning European dishes unheralded by the pomp, elaborate presentation, pernickety attitude and prices often associated with food of this calibre, and it’s quietly exhilarating. The unexpected combination of a boutique menu casually served in an industrial space, over which Con Christopoulos (European, Journal) has waved his magic wand, draws a varied, ebullient crowd. Liberally spread the smoky eel escabeche, threaded with caramelised onion, on light rye bread (from the attached Commercial Bakery), or share a plate of seared chorizo on a bed of spicy chickpeas. A main of squid-ink agnolotti, filled with airy crab, gets a tomatoey pep from a bed of very finely diced caponata. There’s an interesting selection of Italian and Victorian boutique wines, all well priced, and desserts, such as chocolatey churros, are just delightful.