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Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons

There’s a curious tension between Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons’ glamorous, moody interior and the simple Roman trattoria dishes that exit its Ferrari-red and steel kitchen. Savvy waiters in white butchers’ coats and jeans move in and out of pools of light, dispensing carafes of wine, platters of bread and banter. The effect is pure theatre; you wouldn’t be surprised to spot Tony Soprano conspiring at a corner table. The long, versatile menu offers scope for light lunches (scallops with a peppy lemon-dressed watercress and radish salad); celebratory dinners (hefty Angus T-bone for two, followed by a rich, layered zuppa Inglese); late suppers (rigatoni with pork sausage in a piquant tomato sauce) and snacks at the bar (pass the oregano-dusted shrimp, please) – all executed with plenty of care and flair. The only reservation? They don’t take them, so come early or be prepared to wait at the bar.