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Great wine drives: Tasmania

Tasmania has come a long way since 1982 when it was inadvertently left off the map for the Brisbane Commonwealth Games, something the locals have never forgotten. The wines have certainly improved, to the extent that they not only compete favourably on the world stage but the sparklers are considered by many to be second only to Champagne itself.

It would be wonderfully easy to lose oneself in the nooks and crannies of our island state, to disappear for days down back roads and into national parks, visiting the markets, the galleries and more. For the dedicated wine lover, this place is nirvana. And for those people not quite so enamoured with the grape, there are more than enough diversions.

How long do you need? The better question is: How long have you got? It does take some travelling time for mainlanders to get to Tasmania, especially if taking the Spirit of Tasmania ferry across Bass Strait to Devonport, so we decided to allocate five days in the vineyards. We break Tasmania into three convenient regions – the southern district incorporating the Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley and Huon district; the east coast; and the north, bringing together the Tamar Valley, Pipers Brook and the north-western region – and allocate two days each for the south and north and a day for the east. Just remember that visiting wineries in this state involves substantial travelling time (although once in the region, the wineries are surprisingly close together) and you may wish to include an extra day or two to spend in your favourite area. As the Tasmanian wine regions have not received official designation, most authorities split them into north and south, with a diagonal line running north-east to south-west, which for travelling purposes is not helpful.

Although we have not yet seen the various sub-regions fully delineated, there are big differences between them, with the most important being pinot noir, for both table and sparkling wine. If you don’t like pinot – and shame on you – then Tassie is not the place for you. Its rieslings may not have garnered the public attention focused on regions such as the Clare and Eden valleys, but it can only be a matter of time. If riesling had the public profile and adoration bestowed on sauvignon blanc, then Tasmania would be firmly established in the consciousness of the wine world, rather than as a curiosity hanging around the bottom of Australia.

Tasmania offers micro-climates of surprising warmth, but remember to always keep the winter woollies handy. Although pinot dominates the reds, there are fine examples of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, even shiraz, to be found. Among the early red varieties planted was zinfandel, which anecdotal evidence suggested worked far better than one would expect.

Chardonnay is the key white but riesling is the excitement machine. Pinot gris and the occasional gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc also have their devotees. However, the sparklers are the stand-outs. The results to date have been very exciting and all the larger sparkling winemakers on the mainland are seeking fruit from Tasmania. There are about 1550 hectares under vine. Almost half of that is pinot noir and just over a quarter is chardonnay. Ten per cent is sauvignon blanc and slightly less than that is planted to riesling. Pinot gris is increasing and represents about 5 per cent of the plantings. It leaves very little for all the other varieties, but they are sprinkled throughout.

Tasmania has a long vinous history, dating from the 1820s, but most of the activity has taken place over the last few decades. It was making wine well before Victoria and South Australia; indeed, records suggest Tasmania provided the cuttings for the first plantings in both states. The fledgling industry failed to survive the 1800s and faded away. This was largely blamed on the gold rushes on the mainland, which saw many potential vineyard workers heading north to seek their fortune.

Claudio Alcorso, a famous name in Tasmanian viticulture, planted grapes in the Derwent region in 1958 and established Moorilla Estate. Frenchman Jean Miguet preceded Alcorso by a few years to the north near Launceston. But it was not until the late 1970s and ’80s that the Tasmanian wine industry finally started to take shape.

Keeping this in mind during your travels, don’t expect Barossan-style tales of ancient vines – not many plantings exceed 20 years of age. Nor will you find a plethora of the massive factory-like operations that the big players on the mainland must operate. Cellar doors are a feature but that doesn’t mean all the wineries are open all the time. It is always worth a quick call ahead to make sure you are not disappointed. Economies of scale mean that some of the small operations use contract winemakers, such as Julian Alcorso (Claudio’s son) at Winemaking Tasmania, and they may choose not to bear the costs of operating a cellar door. Wherever you go, you’ll be sure to find well-known names making cracking wines, and some unheralded discoveries that will be future superstars.

DAY 1
Although the locals probably won’t appreciate the reference, flying into Hobart does imbue one with a feeling of stepping back into the ’50s and ’60s. One almost expects the televisions to be showing black and white versions of Gilligan’s Island. This ensures a unique charm. The joy of visiting the surrounding wine regions is that you can base yourself in Hobart and be out among the vines in no time at all.

Using Hobart as the launching pad, prepare yourself for day one with a hearty breakfast at your accommodation. The Henry Jones Art Hotel (25 Hunter St, Hobart, 03 6210 7700) is ideally located and makes a wonderful base. An alternative would be to head down to a cafe by the water. After breakfast, a short trip to the east will bring you to Frogmore Creek Vineyards (20 Denholms Rd, Cambridge, 03 62485844, open weekends). As well as its own wines, Frogmore Creek operates as a contract maker for 35 other wineries in the Coal River Valley and beyond. Frogmore Creek was built in the early 1990s by Andrew Hood, who has long been one of the key players in the Tasmanian wine industry. Originally dubbed Wellington, American registration issues forced a change of name. 42 Degrees South is also part of this operation. Hood is mostly retired now but his expertise and experience are obviously still in demand. If you are a keen fly-fisherman and do happen to come across Hood during your visit, he’ll be only too happy to pass on a few tips.

Frogmore Creek has a bit of Barossa about it, with Nick Glaetzer, Colin’s youngest son, the winemaker since 2007. The rieslings and pinot noirs are must-tries and the gewürztraminer will enchant many.

Anyone keen on gewürztraminer should drop by Craigow Vineyards (528 Richmond Rd, Cambridge, 02 62485379, open January to March; otherwise by appointment), just the proverbial stone’s throw up the road. The property was established as a land grant on the Coal River in the early 1800s and is worth seeing. It was once home to the largest apricot orchard in the state. The dessert wines are a house specialty.

By now, you’ll be ready for lunch and there is no better place than Meadowbank Estate (699 Richmond Road, Cambridge, 03 6248 4484, open seven days). As well as being  equipped with all the wine paraphernalia one could wish for – books, clothing, olive oil and so on – they have organised each floor to tell a story (it’s done wonderfully well and is worth a visit). Plus, there are blind tastings, aroma experiences and the Wendover Collection, which includes some of the oldest bottles in Australia – a unique treasure.

The estate is also working towards saving the Tasmanian Devil, which is afflicted with an incurable disease that is threatening the entire population. The second-label wines are called Salvation and $1 from every bottle sold goes to this cause. The excellent restaurant is open every day of the year (except Christmas Day and Good Friday). Meadowbank also maintains a year-long program of arts, musical and culinary events. Like the Tassie industry itself, Meadowbank has come a long way. Its first vintage, in 1979, yielded the princely amount of 15 kilograms of grapes. The sparkling, Mardi, is definitely worth trying. The quality of the fruit from Meadowbank and its suitability for fizz is so good that much of Arras is sourced here.

On the way back to Hobart, leave yourself time to catch Stefano Lubiana Wines (60 Rowbottoms Rd, Granton, 02 6263 7457). It will be a big day but more than rewarding. Steve Lubiana is a highly regarded winemaker and his winery site offers excellent views. He’ll be happy to discuss biodynamics with you but make sure you try as many of his wines as possible – superb chardonnays, enviable pinot and in the Prestige range, one of Australia’s best sparklers, which has spent a decade on lees. There is also an alluring nebbiolo rosé and delightfully refreshing Alfresco.

DAY 2
To kick off your second day, an easy run to the south-west to Cradoc brings you to Panorama Estate (Cygnet Coast Rd, Cradoc, 03 6266 3409). Michael Vishacki, who with wife Sharon, bought Panorama from its Hungarian founder in 1995, will give visitors compelling evidence of global warming. He notes that his cabernet sauvignon has increased a full baumé on average in just over 10 years. If, however, he wanted confirmation that he had chosen a good site, Hunter winemaker and judge Jim Chatto was so impressed with the area that he purchased a neighbouring vineyard. The Vishackis makes no bones about their aim to produce Australia’s best pinot noir, and they certainly have one of the most expensive, with the latest Reserve selling for $180. If you think that is steep, the Grand Reserve (still in barrel; any Grand Reserve will see at least five years in oak) will cost more than $500 a bottle. Anyone planning a visit here will be able to get a good idea of what to expect as the website has a live webcam.

Afterwards, it is time for a morning break so head towards Ranelagh and the Home Hill Winery (03 6264 1200, 38 Nairn St, Ranelagh). This attractive winery is made from local hardwood timber and rammed earth. You will have the oppor-tunity for a tasting, including excellent pinot noir, and some truly magnificent coffee. Home Hill also makes one of Australia’s few sylvaners; this one very much in the pinot gris mould. And, should you get the urge to marry while on your trip, the winery caters for weddings.

The plan for the rest of the day is a tasting and a long slow lunch at the magnificent Moorilla Estate (655 Main Rd, Berriedale, 03 6277 9900). The winery is undergoing a transformation that will, when finished, make it one of the most exciting winery destinations in the world. As well as an array of first-class wines and labels that push the boundaries, there is a superb micro-brewery. The range of whimsically labelled Moo Brew beers is delicious. There is also provision for upmarket accommodation overlooking the Derwent, and a superb restaurant.

All of this, even the wines, pale into insignificance when you discover the Moorilla Museum of Old and New Art, a truly inspiring initiative. Although actual figures were not being bandied about, one report has the new museum, which will open next year, costing a whopping $70 million to build. The art and antiquities it will house are worth another $100 million. It will no doubt become a feature of any visit to Tasmania.

You could almost walk back to the accommodation from here, but if you do find yourself with time, the Lark Distillery (14 Davey St, Hobart, 03 6231 9088) is a worthwhile stopping point.

DAY 3
Heading north, you won’t get far before the first winery visit after you leave Hobart: Domaine A (Tea Tree Rd, Campania, 03 6260 4174). This 20-hectare vineyard in the Coal River Valley is owned by Peter Althaus and his wife Ruth. Stoney Vineyard is the second label.

Domaine A has become one of this nation’s most controversial wineries, with Peter modelling his operation on European lines. Although Domaine A can boast a superb pinot noir, there is a brace of sauvignon blancs, with many people preferring the more traditional effort than the heavily worked Lady A. Where things get interesting is with the cabernet sauvignon. Conventional wisdom has it that cabernet is simply not suited to Tasmania, but Peter will have none of it, convinced that his micro-climate works perfectly. In the past, a few cab savs have been a little too lean and green for many wine drinkers, but recent evidence suggests that when the conditions do favour this site, the wines are stunning. The 1998 is compelling. Many wine lovers will have formed their own view about Domaine A, but if you are in the region make sure you call in. 

There is quite a lot of travelling today so the rest of the time will be spent exploring the wineries along Tasmania’s east coast. There are not many of them but how anyone limits themselves to a mere 24 hours in this part of the world is beyond me. It is a spectacular drive and all roads lead to the Freycinet Coast. There are many walks, including around the famous Wineglass Bay, and wildlife devotees will find Tasmanian Devils, fairy penguins, wombats, possums and an array of bird life. Don’t miss the chance to try the local walnuts. The spectacular scenery makes a picnic along the way compulsory.

As you arrive at Spring Vale Vineyards (130 Spring Vale Rd, Cranbrook, 02 6257 8208), you’ll notice a large old iron pot in the gardens next to the winery (an old stable built by convicts in 1842). Apparently, it was a cooking pot used for boiling whale blubber in less enlightened times. This winery is a family operation, with the vineyard first planted in 1986. As usual, pinot noir is a key variety but here again gewürztraminer is done with style; judging by our tasting, they have the ability to age reasonably well. Indeed, so successful has their gewürztraminer been that the Lyne family are planting more, and they have a dessert style in the pipeline. This is also one of the few places where it is possible to pick up some older vintages of pinot noir. 

The final winery for the day must be Freycinet Vineyards (15919 Tasman Hwy, 02 6257 8574), which has its own unique micro-climate with a warmer than usual amphitheatre and, of course, glorious scenery. If I had to pick only one winery in Tasmania to visit, simply because of the quality of the wines, it would be Freycinet. It is surely in the highest echelon of Australian producers. Geoff Bull established the winery in 1980 and it is now in the extremely safe hands of Claudio Radenti, his son-in-law. Bull is a former abalone diver, something he seems to share with a great many producers in this state.

The Radenti sparkler is one of Australia’s best. The chardonnay has proved that it will age as well as any made in Australia, and maintain freshness and elegance while doing so. The riesling likewise. And the pinot noir is a joy to drink, a wine of sheer class and a proven ager. Needless to say, this is at the very top of my Don’t Miss wineries.

Later, spend the night at the fabulous Freycinet Lodge (1800 420 155) and gorge yourself on the amazing seafood. With all that the Lodge has to offer, you’ll want to spend as much time as possible here, so your getaway the next morning may not be one of the earliest of the trip.

DAY 4
Today, we continue to Launceston and encounter more familiar names. A little further towards Devonport it is a return to smaller operations. The picturesque Tamar Valley is to the north-west of Launceston, with Pipers Brook and Pipers River to the north-east.
The tour can now go one of two ways. For accommodation tonight, you can travel to the magnificent Cradle Mountain National Park and stay at one of many options, such as the Cradle Mountain Chateau (1800 420 155). Or make Launceston your base – it will work well as a centre of operations for trips to the surrounding wineries and other attractions – and enjoy the comfort of the Launceston Country Club Tasmania (1800 420 155). It is very pleasant, if somewhat sprawling, accommodation.

Before that, though, you have some more wineries to visit. First stop, for a tasting and some excellent coffee, is the Josef Chromy Winery (370 Relbia Rd, Relbia, 03 6335 8700), a star performer in this region. The man himself is legendary in these parts. In 1950 he was a destitute 20-year-old in his war-torn Czech village that had suffered years of occupation by both Nazi and Soviet forces. He took five months to escape from Europe and emigrate to Australia but he quickly established several businesses, including Tamar Ridge, which was sold to Gunns in 2003 (Chromy was then 76). This latest operation is the crowning glory and will offer more than just excellent wines. Visitors enjoying their coffee on the deck overlooking the lake should take a moment to note that in time, when the trout have grown, they will be able to take fly-fishing lessons. There will also be polo. In the meantime, you’ll have to make do with the coffee and the wines, made by Jeremy Dineen. The aim is to get production to 25,000 cases. As well as the Chromy range, there are the Pepik second-label wines and the Zdar selection denoting exceptional quality. The wines to watch are the riesling and pinot noir.

Next, swing around and catch Jansz (1216B Pipers Brook Rd, Pipers Brook, 03 6382 7066), one of the big boys of the Tassie industry, devoted solely to sparkling, and part of the Yalumba empire. Visitors go to the Jansz Tasmania Wine Room and Interpretive Centre for tasting and educational opportunities. The quality of the wines is beyond reproach, and the Late Disgorged wines have lifted the standards even higher. This is also the region to find the Bay of Fires Winery (40 Baxters Rd, Pipers River, 03 6382 7622), part of the Constellation empire and also responsible for some of the state’s finest sparklers.

An alternative for lunch is a platter at Goaty Hill Wines (Auburn Rd, Kayena, 03 6391 9090), a winery which brought two families together into a partnership. Riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir all succeed here. This is a casual, friendly cellar door, which would be an ideal stop for travelling families.

Tamar Ridge (653 Auburn Rd, Kayena, 03 6394 1111) is another must-visit winery. Winemaker Andrew Pirie was an integral part of Pipers Brook, which he founded in 1974 and which is now owned by the multinational Kreglinger. Pirie is still as meticulous as ever and the result is some of Tassie’s finest wines. Plus, there are numerous wines that are still in the experimental stage. Albariño is one, though that might depend on DNA tests. Viognier and gewürztraminer are two others but, the botrytis rieslings aside, pinot noir again rules. Also keep an eye out for Pirie Estate wines on your travels. There is no cellar door at the winery but you don’t have to be on site to enjoy these marvellous drops.

If you are up to it, I recommend a final stop at one of the more intriguing smaller wineries in this region, Holm Oak Vineyards (11 West Bay Rd, Rowella, 03 6394 7577). It has vines that have now accumulated some age, having been planted in 1983. This is another vineyard where the riesling demands attention.

DAY 5
If you have chosen Cradle Mountain, then, like everyone else who visits, you will want to get the most from your brief stay at this famous national park and make it a later start. If you preferred Launceston, a leisurely breakfast and a chance to enjoy Tasmania’s northerly city is on offer, or duck out to Bay of Fires Winery for the morning. Either way, finish your wine tour of Tasmania with a tasting of some excellent pinot noir and lunch at Barringwood Park Vineyard (60 Gillams Rd, Lower Barrington, 03 6492 3140), before heading off to the ferry at Davenport or back to the airport at Launceston and departing the island.

Set in the beautiful rolling hills of the north-west sub-region, Barringwood Park is popular for its lunches. This is a small producer, who, along with the inevitable pinot noir, not only has pinot gris and chardonnay but also pinot meunier and schönburger. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, don’t miss the pinot noir.

And if the Apple Isle hasn’t been sufficient, you can always turn around and head back to Hobart. You’ll be certain to find just as many gems again. It is a brave person who would dare leave Tasmania off the map these days.

Check out www.winetasmania.com.au to help plan your own wine route around the state.

TEXT KEN GARGETT PHOTOGRAPHY FROGMORE CREEK VINEYARDS

This article appeared in the June/July 2009 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.