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Guillaume at Bennelong

There might be no finer example of poise in restaurant-craft than this dark and magical space occupying the smallest of the Opera House’s sails. Bennelong holds its rank in our three-star constellation not because it pushes envelopes, but because it over-delivers on quality. It’s the pitch of maître d’ Craig Hemmings’ welcome, the surprising liveliness of the wine list, and the lustre of Guillaume Brahimi’s menu. Foie gras mousse is sandwiched with just-sweet-enough gingerbread in a memorable hors d’oeuvre. Truffles shower a cumulus-light velouté of artichokes set on chestnuts and parmesan cream. Veal rack, roasted on the bone and sliced for two, is raised to elegant heights with the addition of speck, peas, spring onion and bouncy sweetbread “croûtons”, and the jus gras added at the table is a lesson in correct saucing. Roast pears and pain perdu hold the spell right to the end.