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Isis Brasserie

Fancy some buffalo? How about a tarte Tatin made using pears the size of your fingernail? Isis has a reputation for dependability but it’s not a euphemism for boring, thanks to executive chef Jason Peppler, who wheels and deals his way to some of the best produce in the state. While the ingredients may be in vogue, cooking techniques are rooted in the classics. Peppler’s experience sees dishes stay on the right side of originality and extravagance, as with truffled Berkshire pork salami, nashi and celeriac rémoulade, confit belly, pink peppercorn and lychee dressing. Desserts are a mix of updated retro (black forest soufflé, berry and vanilla bean ice-cream spider) and old favourites. The wine list, traversing the best Old and New World houses, is exemplary, as are the drinks in the sophisticated basement bar. Surrounded by thumping bars and a restless Valley youth scene, Isis is an oasis of calm and taste.