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Penfolds Magill Estate

A new chef and kitchen brigade have brought fresh optimism to Magill Estate, introducing a bold splash of the exotic to a previously constrained menu. Tasmanian Luke Stepsys has technical precision to support his ambition, whether it’s conjuring an intensely flavoured white tomato cloud with parmesan foam, or offsetting rare tuna under a sourdough skin with braised oxtail. He’s not afraid to be playful with serious meat dishes: wagyu sirloin is presented like deconstructed nachos, with lush cornmeal foam, bitter chocolate and bean mole and zingy lime salt. And it works. Conclude with striking desserts – peanut butter consommé on dehydrated chocolate mousse? – or a romp around the grand cheese trolley. With a wide range of Penfolds wines, from old vintages to Grange by the glass, and a strong Champagne list, this elegant restaurant is once again in fine form.