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Marque

The feather-light beetroot and foie gras macaron is probably when you realise you’re not in Kansas any more. Unless you’ve already cracked the page-turner of a wine list, which opens with gentian and Madeira apéritifs and only gets more interesting. This small, darkly modern room sits on a not especially chic stretch of Crown Street, but it’s also on the edge. So jump in – order the $145 dégustation and buckle up. You might have to countenance the odd experiment, but the strike-rate is hard to beat. Saucy ribbons of duck ham and a pink tranche of duck liver take sharp and sweet relief from braised and fresh witlof; a parmesan custard and puffy parmesan “gnocchi” contribute richness. Slow-cooked short rib achieves rare grace paired with onion croquettes, smoked onion and a black pudding purée, while the Sauternes custard is a saucer of sweet transcendence. One of our best.