Matt Skinner's inside guide to Barcelona
Celebrity sommelier Matt Skinner launches himself at the colourful piñata that is Spain’s capital and in one hit reveals its prized culinary and vinous riches.
Espai Sucre (Sugar Space) in Barcelona is one restaurant that takes its desserts very seriously. And so it should – it’s all they serve. The glucose deficient among you will no doubt be delighted to know that the jewel in Espai’s crown is a five-course degustation menu constructed entirely of sweet dishes. A specially crafted wine package to match is– no pun intended – the icing on the cake.
If, like me, you still dream about that scene in the classic film Charlie and The Chocolate Factory where the golden ticket winners gorge themselves on trees made from spun sugar, animals from cake, and water from chocolate, then Espai Sucre (Carrer de la Princesa 53, 08003, +34 93 268 1630) – and Barcelona in general, for that matter – is about as close to food and wine paradise as you or I are ever likely to find.
Barcelona moves to the beat of a different drum. This is a city designed for sleeping late, for taking your time, for strolling, admiring, and above all else, for consuming. It’s also a compact city where wide, leafy streets that make sense are dissected by a chaotic maze of narrow, cobbled laneways that do not. It’s a city where stark, in-your-face modernism blends seamlessly with all things traditional, where order collides head-on with chaos – a city home to the radical, the genius and the just plain out there.
Barcelona is also currently home to one of the most vibrant food and wine scenes on the planet. From molecular gastronomy’s razor-sharp edge to the unadulterated best of the old school – this is a city where people eat because they understand that good food brings people together rather than simply making them full, a city where a day of eating and drinking is just about as good as it gets.
Although breakfast might seem the most logical place to start, it also ranks as the least important meal of the Barcelona day and often consists of (dieticians, look away now) little more than a couple of strong café cortados (a shot of coffee with a dash of steamed milk) and something doughy on the run.
Later risers are more likely to go for churros and hot chocolate – a Barcelona staple that also doubles as a great afternoon pick-me-up. Hot chocolate in this town comes rich and thick, and the churros (long, thin, sugary doughnuts) are served hot from the fryer. And although decent churrarias can be found all over the city, the offerings from Granja Dulcinea (Carrer de Petritxol 2, 08002, +34 93 302 6824) – one of the most popular spots in the Catedral – are the stuff of legend.
A visit to Barcelona wouldn’t be complete without a morning spent strolling one of the cities many galleries, and for this you will almost certainly need a decent set of treads. Having begun life shortly after the civil war, La Manual Alpargatera (Carrer d’Avinyó 7, 08002, +34 93 301 0172) is the home of the quintessential Barcelona shoe, the espadrille. Enter off the street into a vast space of old timber shelves and boxes stacked high with every conceivable colourway, size and variation on Spain’s favourite casual shoe. A wall of famous faces is testament to this shop’s longstanding popularity.
Cross the Museu Picasso (Carrer de Montcada 15-23, 08003, +34 93 256 3000) off your list, and then keep the inspiration coming with a trip to the Mercat de la Boqueria (Rambla de Sant Josep, 08001) – one of the world’s greatest produce markets. This is a phenomenal place where you’ll find the most amazing, bizarre, beautiful and in-your-face selection of all things edible. Best of all are the market eateries that specialise in serving fast, simple dishes fresh from the stalls. Come early morning and take a stool at Mercat Bar alongside the market workers, point at what you want – squid a la plancha is always good – order yourself a cerveza, and don’t give a second thought to the fact that it’s only just gone 8am!
If your blood sugar is failing you after your morning’s activity, make a beeline for Xocoa (Carrer de Petritxol 11, 08002, +34 93 301 1197) where you’ll find amazing chocolate in imaginative packaging. Live dangerously and opt for flavours such as green tea, Jamaican pepper and rosemary – or play it safe with the more familiar crispy rice, ginger or almond.
Barcelona’s top wine shop is Vila Viniteca (Carrer Agullers 7, 08003, +34 93 777 7017). This is a library-like shop where upwards of 6000 bottles from all over the world are housed from the floor to the ceiling and accessed by a narrow walkway that runs the perimeter of the store. You name it and it’s most probably here; from Spain’s established classics, to pricey offerings from its new guard. Staff are friendly, passionate, and extremely well drilled.
If back on the street things seem a little quiet, there is a very good chance it’s siesta time. Park Hotel (Avinguda Marques de l’Argentera 11, 08003, +34 93 319 6000) is a small hotel that exudes retro cool minus the price tag. Built in 1957, The Park is the perfect spot for resting weary legs and has slowly been enjoying a floor-by-floor refurbishment since the early 2000’s. Design junkies will love the as-original front bar, the square spiral staircase and the hotel’s huge neon beacon, while for the rest of us, friendly competent staff, breakfast that is served until midday, comfy beds and free wi-fi should be enough to keep us happy. Rooms are on the smaller side but contain all you need for a more than comfortable stay. Better still, you’re within walking distance of pretty much everywhere, and for those wishing to exercise their adventurous streak, the train station is located just across the road.
And then, once the sun goes down, that’s when the fun really begins. The most satisfying way to eat dinner in Barcelona is to start late and eat a small amount at a number of venues over an extended period of time. How many places you visit is entirely up to you, but be warned that most kitchens don’t start serving food until 9pm.
The ideal place to kick off your evening is La Vinya del Senyor (Plaça de Santa Maria 5, 08003, +34 93 310 3379), Barcelona’s best wine bar and perfect for a glass or two of Cava and a spot of people watching. That said, just be sure you’ve finished your drinks by 7.45pm in order to scoot around the corner and join the queue for a stool in one of Barcelona’s most iconic eateries. The legendary Cal Pep (Placa de les Olles 8, 08003, +34 93 310 7961) has been packing them in for nearly 20 years. Each night the roller door comes up and a lucky few get to take their seats at the formica counter, while those in waiting drool from behind. Staple faves include snap fried gambas, whitebait, squid, pipies, pimentos de padron, tomato bread and the most incredible tortilla you will ever eat.
But don’t eat too much because the next stop is the much-loved El Xampanyet (Carrer de Montcada 22, 08004, +34 93 319 7003). This brightly lit slip of a place specialises in Xampanyet – a kind of semi-sweet, fizzy wine that has the capacity to induce some of the world’s worst hangovers if consumed in large volumes – and its easily done. A better option is a cleansing ale or bone-dry glass of rosado to accompany the enormous selection of tinned fish on offer. Small plates of anchovies on toast are a specialty in this noisy yet exceptionally friendly place.
In stark contrast to El Xampanyet, Comerç 24 (Carrer de la Comerç 24, 08003, +34 93 319 2102) turns out deconstructed Spanish classics that are challenging without being outrageous. Having trained under the great Ferran Adrià, Carles Abellan has quickly developed a cult-like following for dishes such as green olive and anchovy foam, while truffled potato puree served in an eggshell you crack open yourself will have you scratching your head in wonder for the remainder of the evening. The wine list is short but sweet and made up largely of smaller, off-the-beaten-track Catalan producers.
Those that still have some room left would be well advised to jump a cab and head across town to Quimet & Quimet (Carrer del Poeta Cabanyas 25, 08004, +34 93 442 3142) a family run institution serving up some of the most amazing and beautiful-looking tapas I have encountered. Expect small plates of home-cured meats and smoked fish, such as tuna, salmon and eel; house staples, including mussels and caviar on toasted brioche; and a range of world-class wines so reasonably priced it’ll make your eyes water. It’s a case of standing room only at Quimet & Quimet, but it’s worth it.
And finally for those simply in need of a cleansing ale after such a gastronomic workout, head for Bar Marsella (Carrer de Saint Pau 65, 08001, +34 93 442 7263), a beautiful old bar of worn timber, broken mosaic tiles and smoked-stained mirrors, which besides once being a favourite absinthe haunt of Hemingway, also doubles as the perfect spot to debrief after what was surely one of your best ever days of eating and drinking.
PHOTOGRAPHY ENRIQUE MANDUJANO REYES
This article appeared in the April/May 2009 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine.