Matt Skinner's inside guide to Sydney

 

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It’s an age-old rivalry. A rivalry that even pre-dates the federation of Australia – although the fight for which of the country’s two largest cities may have potentially become the nation’s capital undoubtedly fuelled the fire. While Sydney was older, Melbourne was bigger. Where Sydney favoured free trade, Melbourne favoured trade restrictions. As Sydney grew to become the financial and media hub of Australia, Melbourne grew to become the place for art, fashion and food. Sydney had rugby. Melbourne had Aussie Rules. Sydney has Bondi. Melbourne has Bells. Sydney has Russell Crowe. Melbourne doesn’t. And so it goes on. Melbourne versus Sydney.

Sydney is a beautiful city, which is something Melbournians are quick to point out in defense of their own thriving food and wine culture – a throw-away line used to dismiss Sydney as being little more than a pretty face. Use it at your peril. And while it’s true that many Sydney eateries have also scored of some of the most expensive fit-outs this side of the equator, they are also not without their substance. At the recent 2011 Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards seven of the nation’s top-10 restaurants were from Sydney. Just two were from Melbourne.

Rockpool, Quay, Bécasse, Est, Guillame at Bennelong, Tetsuya’s, Marque and Rockpool Bar & Grill, as frighteningly good as they are, its hard not to notice that the past couple of years has seen a quantum leap in both the number and quality of affordable places to eat and drink in Sydney. Part of it has to do with increased exposure to a broad range of food styles, and access to better produce, while sweeping reforms to liquor licensing have also provided significant catalyst for change. As it stands, Sydney is currently neck and neck with Melbourne for great places to eat, drink, caffeinate, and shop, but I’m keen to know if it’s better. An unhealthy bias for Melbourne means that I enlist the services of a Sydney-based mate – a food and drink writer who is fiercely parochial when it comes to the quality of what Sydney has to offer. He has 24 hours to convince me that Sydney is the food and drink capital of Australia. Within minutes of accepting the challenge it becomes frighteningly clear that I may just have opened Pandora’s box and that this is going to be a no holds barred, full-throttle assault on both my body and senses.

With the clock ticking, Sydney’s best coffee comes in the form of Single Origin Roasters (60-64 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, 02 9211 0665) at the hipster end of Reservoir St in Surry Hills. This small but perfectly formed slice of caffeine heaven has been packing them in for almost eight years, and now there are grand plans to expand next door adding a coffee lab and dispensary area for patrons who want theirs to go rather than stay. For foodies after something a little more substantial, a short ride from Surry Hills through the back streets of Redfern will bring you to Waterloo’s bustling Danks Street food precinct, where among the likes of the jaw-droppingly good Fratelli Fresh (7 Danks  St, Waterloo, 02 9699 3161), and the brilliant Sonoma Bakery Cafe (2/9 Danks St, Waterloo, 02 9699 1920), you’ll find the Danks Street Depot (1/2 Danks St, Waterloo, 02 9698 2201). Founded by Jared Ingersoll and Melanie Starr in 2002, Danks Street Depot continues to proudly showcase the freshest of seasonal produce from a raft of local, small scale and artisan producers.  Dishes are simple, clean and beautifully balanced. Despite the fact that I have an enormous day of eating ahead, resistance to DSD’s legendary creamed eggs with roasted mushrooms and truffle oil proves useless – an experience that’s made even better by a side of bacon and silverbeet hash.

There are worse ways to work off your breakfast than by trawling the inventory of great independent wine stores, and Sydney happens to be home to some of this country’s finest. Founded back in 1987, Best Cellars (91 Crown St, Darlinghurst, 02 9361 3733) is a treasure trove of quality wine housed in a tiny shop at the city end of Crown Street. Come here for an extensive range of wines from both Australia and beyond (top-end New Zealand is an obvious strong point), for friendly and knowledgeable staff, and for regular tastings and events. Italophiles should make a beeline for Five Way Cellars (4 Heeley St, Paddington, 02 9360 4242). Located in an old Victorian terrace, Five Way’s boasts an impressive range of small scale Italian wine, and has been a driving force behind the promotion of decent Italian drops in Australia since the late 1980s. Like Best Cellars, Five Ways also carries a wide selection of wines from around the world and host’s regular in-store tastings and events. The hardcore should head for Ultimo Wine Centre (99 Jones St, Ultimo, 02 9211 2380) who since the mid 1990s, has been at the forefront of quality-imported wine in Australia. From Burgundy’s biggest names through to hand-selected lines from Germany, Spain, Portugal, the Americas, not to mention a phenomenal range of wine paraphernalia, Jon Osbeiston and team are knowledgeable, friendly and right on point. Come here to drool and buy, before having it shipped home.

If you haven’t already checked into your accommodation, then Blue Sydney (6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo, 02 9331 9000) at Woolloomooloo Wharf is the perfect spot to drop your bags and rest your weary bones. Housed inside an old shipping yard, Blue blends industrial warehouse chic with simple modern styling. Rooms have lofty ceilings, while water views one side (navy boats one the other), wireless internet access, iphone docks in every room, huge flat screen TV’s, a day spa and a 17-metre lap pool only further add to the appeal. In fact, you may never want to leave.

Checked-in, refreshed and possibly ready to eat again, you’ll be either pleased or horrified to know that strolling distance from your room is Woolloomooloo Wharf’s vibrant dining precinct. If the sun is shining on the harbour, which it often is, then the best spot to eat lunch will be by the water. There is no shortage of good eating options here, but the favourite remains China Doll (6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo, 02 9380 6744). A compact wine list offers a brilliant backdrop for dishes like incredible Atlantic crab, sweet and sticky pork belly, sublime Peking duck, and a knockout wagyu beef curry. Another great option is a short cab ride from Woolloomooloo Wharf: Bodega Tapas Bar (216 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, 02 9212 7766). The warehouse-like space, quirky murals, friendly staff, incredible food and great wine, make this place a must. With a new Argentinean-style grill called Porteño (just opened on Riley and Cleveland), and having been operating since 2006, Bodega has lost none of its shine. Flavours are bold and clean, and the selection of wines extends well beyond the bounds of Spain to take in Spanish-speaking South America. As small wine lists go, Bodega is considered, beautifully balanced and offers serious value for money.

As head sommelier for Luke Mangan’s Glass Brasserie (2/488 George St, Sydney, 02 9265 6068), Kim Bickley sees a lot of wine. And yet, minus the airs and graces, she negotiates between premium Australian, obscure European and curve-ball varieties with personality and precision. She is one of those down-to-earth sommeliers who manages to ease her patrons into a selection without any kind of snobbery or elusiveness. A Len Evans Tutorial Scholar in 2008 and an active member of the Australian Sommeliers Association, Bickley is worth keeping a keen eye on. Similarly, with extraordinary depth of understanding and encyclopedic knowledge, Nick Hildebrandt of Bentley Restaurant and Bar (320 Crown St, Surry Hills, 02 9332 2344) is widely regarded as one of the best sommeliers in the country. Focused, and with an eye for the unusual, Hildebrandt is a trendsetter, defying the norm on his lists and challenging drinkers with his depth of offering. From red-rice sake to Swiss varietals, he relishes the opportunity to expand and develop the palates of his patrons. He is generous with knowledge happily mentoring customers through a remarkable selection of wines.

But if you’re simply looking for a decent glass of wine rather than a list of biblical proportions, then Sydney has a growing number of great spots. And while stalwarts such as Time to Vino and Mille Vini helped usher in Sydney’s wine bar revolution, the most exciting new offering in the genre is The Wine Library (18 Oxford St, Woollahra, 02 9328 1600). Up the Centennial Park end of Oxford St, they’re queuing out the door at the strip’s newest edition. And for good reason. This is a small, thoughtfully designed wine bar that combines a world-class list with modern styling. So much that with glass of prosecco and plate of prosciutto in hand, I momentarily lose myself and forget I’m in Woollahra. And while the stars are priced accordingly, there are plenty of bargains to be had on this list of 350 or so wines. Service is both extremely friendly and knowledgeable.

With archaic licensing laws reformed and the city of Sydney keen to stimulate an already flourishing bar scene, there has been a sharp spike in the number of good bars popping up in recent times. Like Melbourne, the best of these take advantage of neglected spaces and often take some finding. Shady Pines Saloon (4/256 Crown St, Darlinghurst) is a perfect example. It’s hidden behind a faux shopfront down an unassuming Darlinghurst lane off Crown St. Like a lone tumbleweed I unceremoniously roll down the lane before nervously muttering the words “shady pines” to a burly security guard. With a friendly smile he replies, “Welcome”, and a small door reveals a fascinating interior of Midwest colonial cool; think taxidermy, craft ales, boutique bourbon, low-lit lamps, Patsy Cline tunes and trucker hats. I’m warm, fuzzy and about as close to line dancing as I’d ever care to admit. But if trailer-park chic isn’t exactly you’re style then the brilliant, but equally hard to find, Eau de Vie (229 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst, 02 9357 2470) is well worth a look. To find it, head through the lobby of The Kirketon hotel, past the faux lobby bar, and all the way to the black glass door. Push and you will have found one of Sydney’s best kept secrets. Come here for skillfully mixed cocktails, for softly lit spaces perfect for intimate conversation, and for attentive staff who refreshingly debate the origins of classic cocktails rather than the love lives of their workmates.

After all that, if you still need convincing that Sydney is adequately equipped to handle any challenge Melbourne throws down, head for where all great late night arguments are settled, Golden Century (393-399 Sussex St, Sydney, 02 9212 3901). Every city worth it’s salt has a place like Golden Century – a place that stays open late, that feeds the city’s weary revelers and workers – a restaurant where if only the walls could talk. The problem is that few are as good. And as tempting as a cold Tsing Tao is at the wrong end of the day may be, it’s well worth noting that wine is something taken very seriously at this establishment. The list is long and covers plenty of territory. And with special bottlings from some of the local wine industry’s biggest names, it’s easy to see that Golden Century, like Sydney itself, has no shortage of fans, me included.

PHOTOGRAPHY BODEGA

This article is from the October/November 2010 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.