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Montrachet

Dashing red leather banquettes; tightly packed tables topped with crisp white linen; Laguiole cutlery; and a fleet of professional floor staff. What’s not to love about this little French brasserie transported to inner-city Paddington? Book a seat at the impressive comptoir for a bird’s-eye view and a chance to chat to staff about their impressive collection of Champagnes and Burgundies. An entrée of boudin blanc shows finesse and depth of flavour – the boudin, a light-textured mix of chicken and duck foie gras on wilted spinach, is served with a sweetly tart pear sauce. A twice-baked crab and Gruyère soufflé also seduces. Spread an accompanying rouille on top of crisp croutons to crown a bouillabaisse, with its small pile of tender prawns, calamari, reef fish and more. Bargain desserts seal the deal. Try a clafoutis with Cognac-soaked prunes and pear served with vanilla ice-cream.