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Muse

The wine vat-inspired structure that is the Hungerford Hill cellar door stands sentinel on a vine-covered ridge. This striking building houses the newly monikered Muse (previously Terroir), a refectory-style space humming with hens’ parties, golfing buddies and couples, all tucking into the food of Troy Rhoades-Brown, a protégé of valley icon Robert Molines. Locavores wouldn’t applaud, but the wild Atlantic scallops are seared skilfully, as is the rare organic beef fillet with large brown mushrooms. The succinct menu offers deftly prepared dishes: spinach tortellini with a soft duck farce; pink lamb rack with pea mousse; or plump glazed quail. Whimsy surfaces only in a deconstructed lemon meringue crumbs-to-the-side “pie”. With refreshingly attentive service and a wine list offering house and outer-region and imported labels, we’re sure there’s better yet to come from this capable crew.