Peter Doyle has surveyed Sydney dining from the top of the ladder for more than 20 years, yet the mild-mannered chef eschews the spotlight and culinary pyrotechnics for the quiet-riot of simply getting it right, time and time again. This approach has won him a legion of loyal fans who have followed him from restaurant to restaurant. They’re bound, as we are, to think that Doyle’s current gig, at Sydney’s Est, is an especially copasetic marriage of talent and set-dressing.

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