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Pier

With its focus on pristine seafood and superb location over the waters of Rose Bay, Pier isn’t the kind of restaurant you can visit without taking a few direct hits to the hip pocket. But if white-gloved service, a strong cellar, unusually high-grade produce and rigorous cooking are keys to your dining pleasure, there’s value here. Massive roast scallops with well-browned veal sweetbreads and a sort of silken tofu made of cauliflower is a near-flawless entrée, while Murray cod receives treatment that may well be unmatched, the fish roasted, crowned with fine, crisp potato and touched with almost surgically precise dabs of anchovy, olive, tomato and pine nut. The chicory ice-cream paired with the quince and chestnut tart is oddly bland; the marvellously light custard with it, though, is more in keeping with the pastry section’s reputation for excellence. Rarefied stuff.