Wine to try
2006 Zerbina Ceregio Sangiovese DOC, Emilia-Romagna (Italy), A$28
Pigeon is often overlooked in the kitchen but it’s one of the most delicious of all game birds – with intense, almost meaty flavours. The accompanying salad offers a wonderful counterpoint – with the zestiness of the grapefruit and the bitterness of the radicchio and endive cutting through the richness of the pigeon. Choosing an appropriate wine is a bit tricky – at this time of year a red is mandatory, but a full-bodied style would overwhelm the pigeon and the inherent tannins would conflict with the bitterness of the salad leaves. The Zerbina Ceregio is an unwooded sangiovese from the Emilia-Romagna region that borders Tuscany. It is intensely flavoured yet fresh and bright with sweet cherry and red currant fruit flavours, and a zing of fresh vital acidity that works in harmony with this pigeon salad. Serve lightly chilled in warmer weather.
This recipe appeared in the June/July 2009 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.