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Quay

Quay’s brilliance is built on the foundation of a peerless harbourfront location, a comfortable room and a serious investment in direct relationships with producers. That investment plays out in inventive dishes that are broad in their inspiration, complex in their preparation but all too easy to eat: butter-soft curls of squid and octopus on a silky garlic custard, ringed by slices of tiny radishes and dressed with native violets; partridge breast coaxed to tenderness in butter, paired with squishy partridge dumplings and black pudding and given crunch with chestnuts. Desserts are unusually good. The tumbler of strawberry and guava granita topped with a toffee sphere containing meringue around a nucleus of custard-apple ice-cream is a case in point. There’s a new richness of talent on the floor, too, making Quay, now more than ever, one of the nation’s truly world-class restaurants.