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Restaurant Assiette

This tightly packed room has the heart of a bistro. Though the menu is underpinned by French technique, the kitchen’s allegiance is to progress as much as posterity. Port jelly adds an element of surprise to beef carpaccio with horseradish and a nest of frites, and tuna features in a deconstructed take on sushi replete with puffed rice, soy-ginger jelly and a cucumber-wrapped avocado maki roll. These share tables with barramundi, its flavour paired with silken parsnip purée and the earthiness of smoked eel and red wine sauce, or with a chicken sandwich-inspired collation of intensely flavoursome roast and confit chicken with sauerkraut mayo and bread sauce. The link (as with desserts such as roast pineapple with lime savarin and crème fraîche sorbet) is clear flavours and confident cooking. The food is more special than the setting, but with value this good, who’s complaining?