Nowhere is the connection between Kylie Kwong’s Chinese-Australian heritage and her understanding of place more clear than in her dishes fusing native ingredients with Cantonese cuisine. They’re no gimmick. The tartness of Davidson’s plum balances crisp-skinned duck with orange; the acid-pop of finger lime plays crucial foil to the XO sauce and lardons of pork belly tossed with a pile of split Guyra yabbies. Stir-fried native greens with shiro and ginger, meanwhile, are a gauntlet thrown down to all chefs who consider native plants only for garnish. From the natural and bespoke wines and the well-drilled waitstaff to the ochre walls and the clapping sticks, you can see Kwong’s hands in it all, but they’re steady hands indeed. Take a group, revel in the bigness of the portions and the generosity of spirit, and celebrate a restaurant that truly deserves the hype.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
