A meal at Provenance provides many opportunities to marvel, not least owner-chef Michael Ryan’s ability to maintain its dynamism into its 15th year in Beechworth. The Japanese influence remains central, including how the 18-ish course kaiseki lands in four sets, a tray at a time, each filled with beautiful ceramics holding mostly single-bite morsels that display restraint, power and a cavalcade of textures. An umami bomb of mushroom tofu – crunchy outside; soft and warm inside – might be joined by a Gilda of miso-pickled daikon and cured swordfish; delightfully chewy dried squid accompanied by Kewpie mayo; and a selection of pickles surrounding fiery, bright and crunchy kimchi. There might also be slivers of subtly smoked pork jowl teamed with buckwheat “congee” or matcha gelato perfectly matched with sweet walnut caramel. The drinks list highlights local winemakers and the bracing digestivi Ryan produces for his own label, Beechworth Bitters. Marvellous.
