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Rockpool

After a spell as a fish restaurant, then the tumult of Rockpool Bar & Grill opening up the road and personnel changes, Neil Perry’s fine dining flagship is more or less back to business as unusual. Unusual in the sense that few rooms have this sense of big-city buzz or service and wine with this depth of quality. Unusual in its continuing exploration of new culinary ground. The food has been sharper, but there’s no question this remains a three-star experience as you pick your way through either four courses or a set dégustation. The crab broth bathing textures of tapioca, silken dashi custard, spongy bamboo pith and hanks of mud crab is as subtle as the flavours of fried quail and king prawn paired with black olive and blackbean salsa are emphatic. Desserts combine fun and precision: pain perdu with banana ice-cream, anyone? Grab a seat at the oyster bar for great-value snacking.