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Star of Greece

This culinary beach shack perched atop Port Willunga’s cliffs has been loved by many for years, though proprietor Zanny Twopenny realised the dining room and menu needed sprucing. New chairs and crockery give a lift, while chef Harley Ireland has made efforts to smarten the menu, particularly the seafood offerings. Expect whiting crumbed with black lime and poppy seed, poached marron in vichyssoise, sashimi of swordfish with yoghurt mousse, and bouillabaisse in cooler months. But Ireland’s skill comes to the fore in desserts, with lots of fun and unexpected twists. A pile of mini meringues is surrounded by a coiled rope of passionfruit curd and a feathery puff of lime sorbet. The smart wine list stretches beyond the neighbouring McLaren Vale vineyards to embrace Australian and international vintages. Venture for a final tipple on the deck overlooking the ocean.