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Taste masters: Adam Foster, Three, One, Two, Melbourne

Adam Foster is uniquely placed to appreciate the tales of triumph and woe that lie behind every label he lists. His day and night job is compiling nimble matches to Andrew McConnell’s kitchen wizardry at Three, One, Two. But every chance he gets, he’s off to Heathcote to check on the vineyard that produces his Rhône-inspired shiraz under the Syrahmi label.

What emerging trends are you seeing? “I think the Australian dining public are increasingly interested and savvy about wine. They are interested in organics and biodynamics; they are also increasingly aware of food miles and the impact on the environment. So while Old World wines will never lose popularity or benchmark status for many wine lovers, consumers are interested in seeing what’s new from their own backyard. And that backyard is producing some interesting labels: small, independent producers; wines with lower alcohol and less new oak; single-vineyard wines; organic/biodynamic wine.”

Which wines don’t sell but you can’t understand why? “One of the big challenges for a sommelier is to encourage diners to try wines outside their comfort zone. Armed with a little knowledge and a passion for the label, you will find that most diners will be adventurous.”

What’s the one thing a good Australian sommelier should know? “Wine should enhance the restaurant experience, no matter what level of knowledge the customer has. The job of a sommelier is to nurture the customer; it’s not to sell them the most expensive or showy wines on the list, or the sommelier’s favourite.”

RAVE WINES
Red: 2005 Curly Flat Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges, A$49. “It’s a stunner! Their best yet.”

White: 2006 Garagiste Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, A$39.95. “Single-vineyard, wild-yeast-fermented chardonnay. “A good reason to drink chardonnay again.”

Fizz: 1995 Stefano Lubiana Prestige, Tasmania, A$125. “Great to see someone taking on Champagne!”

Import: “The wines of Franz Haas from Alto Adige, Italy, have really impressed me this year. Traminer Aromatico [A$55], Pinot Bianco [A$49], Pinot Grigio [A$45] and the Manna [A$67] all have intense aromas, are rich and full bodied and have incredible depth of texture. Excellent for matching with food.”

Three, One, Two, (03) 9347 3312, www.threeonetwo.com.au.

This article appeared in the April/May issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine.