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Taste masters: James Welsh, Stillwater, Launceston

Wise beyond his years, 23-year-old James Welsh already has a raging pinot noir obsession that shows no sign of abating. Luckily, he’s well placed to indulge it, strongly supporting the impressive wines from his native Tasmania and building around them an exciting list that makes Stillwater restaurant a hot dining destination.

What emerging trends are you seeing? “Stand aside, sauvignon blanc – chardonnay’s back from the dead! It’s great to see customers enthusiastically returning to new interpretations of old classics like chardonnay and pinot noir.”

Which wines don’t sell but you can’t understand why? “Semillon. It can produce such great wines but, try as I might, it just doesn’t sell.”

What’s the one thing a good Australian sommelier should know? “As much as they possibly can about Australian wine styles, paying particularly close attention to the wines coming from the regions closest to them.”

RAVE WINES
Red: 2006 Holyman Pinot Noir, Tasmania, A$35. “Concentrated and juicy. Really delivers.”

White: 2006 Freycinet Vineyards Chardonnay, Tasmania, A$33. “Rich stone-fruit characters bound up in top-quality oak. Seamless.”

Fizz: 1995 Stefano Lubiana Prestige, Tasmania, A$125. “Creamy mouthfeel, great complexity and length. Measures up to most vintage Champagnes.”

Import: 2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Les Bressandes, Burgundy (France), A$169. “Wow! Such a complete wine – everything beautifully balanced. Great Burgundy.”

Stillwater, (03) 6331 4153, www.stillwater.net.au.

This article appeared in the April/May 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine.