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Taste masters: Jeremy Prus, Duendé, Perth

Starting an apprenticeship as a chef when just 15 may have been what brought Jeremy Prus to hospitality, but travelling around the world and discovering the planet’s myriad wine styles was what settled him into a career as a sommelier. Four years at Duendé has seen Prus garner great acclaim for his varied and extensive list.

What emerging trends are you seeing? “Cava, Cava, Cava! I love this stuff. I know we all had a brief love affair with it a couple of years ago, but now it’s coming on strong. It’s the perfect wake-up call for your palate and it leaves your tastebuds wanting more.”

Which wines don’t sell but you can’t understand why? “I think that rieslings in general are quite under-appreciated – perhaps due to the common misconception that they are overly sweet.”

What’s the one thing a good Australian sommelier should know? “They should know that first and foremost your duty is to the customer. Your job is to make sure that they’re drinking the right wine for them. It is your challenge to find and source these wines, despite pedigree or price. It’s not always about what you want to drink.”

RAVE WINES
Red: 2004 Glenmore Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, A$45. “Elegant but rich and weighty, and that Margaret River earthiness. Ian Bell makes amazing wine.”

White: 2006 Bindi Composition Chardonnay, Macedon Ranges, A$45. “Lean and powerful.”

Fizz: 2001 Castell de Vilarno Gran Reserva, Penedès (Spain), A$40 (’01 sold out, ’03 vintage price). “Fresh, dry and a creamy yeastiness.”

Import:  2004 Michel Torino Altimus MMIV, Cafayate (Argentina), A$69. “A blend of malbec, merlot and cabernet sauvignon with tight, concentrated fruit and amazing structure. It’s drinking beautifully now but will be a real treat for those who have the patience to put it away.”

Duendé, (08) 9228 0123, www.duendetapasbar.com.au.

This article appeared in the April/May 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine.