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Taste masters: Raúl Moreno Yagüe, Vue de Monde, Melbourne

Growing up in Seville, Spain, Raúl Moreno Yagüe quickly, and understandably, developed a passion for flavour. It started with food and progressed, as soon as was sensible, to wine. Moving to London at 18, Yagüe worked with Marco Pierre White at Mirabelle. He arrived in Melbourne five years ago and now spends his evenings finding vinous counterpoints for the soaring culinary ambitions of Shannon Bennett at Melbourne’s Vue de Monde restaurant.

What emerging trends are you seeing? “More people, especially in Victoria, are drinking imports. Aromatic varietals are big – grüner veltliner is growing, as are Spanish albariño and an increasing number of Australian examples [of aromatic wines]. People are also looking for fresher wines with more moderate alcohol.”

Which wines don’t sell but you can’t understand why? “Fortifieds! Some seem scared by them. Sherry reminds them of grandma, people think Marsala is just cooking wine and Madeira is second-class port. There have been some issues with poor service and wines not presented in the condition they should be, but there is such complexity in a good fortified, it’s a shame more people don’t drink them.”

What’s the one thing a good Australian sommelier should know? “A good sommelier must have three things: outstanding knowledge of wine, outstanding knowledge of food and better social skills than a psychologist. A good sommelier must be able to approach a table and within a couple of minutes establish communication with the customers and make then feel relaxed, get their trust and maximise their experience to a point they never expected to reach.”

RAVE WINES
Red: 2007 Spring Vale Pinot Junior, Tasmania, A$23 (sold out, ’08 available in August). “A blend of pinot meunier and pinot noir. Bright, fresh and pretty.”

White: 2007 Clemens Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Tasmania, A$25.50 (sold out, ’08 available in August). “Aromatic, crisp and grassy.”

Fizz: 1999 Yarrabank Late Disgorged, Yarra Valley, A$45. “A terrific sparkling wine with well-defined fruit.”

Import: 2003 Sadie Columella, Swartland (South Africa), A$495 (restaurant only). “An elegant and soft syrah and mourvèdre blend.”

Vue de Monde, (03) 9691 3888, www.vuedemonde.com.au.

This article appeared in the April/May issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine.