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Tetsuya’s

No restaurant in Australia matches Tetsuya’s for all-round polish. The term “well-oiled machine” may indeed have been coined to describe the rhythm and grace of the staff as they work the heavy-beamed, modern Japanese rooms, dispensing the menu’s 13 small, seafoody, almost kaiseki-like courses and the wine list’s Australian all-stars, European oddities and fine sakes. Any complaints about the sameness of the carte from year to year are now met with the elegance of a syrup-textured broth of chestnut and cèpe mushrooms, pretty curls of roast duck breast laid over braised treviso and pepperberry or the unusual soy caramel accompanying marinated raw prawns. Desserts, such as the chocolate ganache with red beans, still aren’t befitting of this otherwise world-class experience, but with new vigour in the kitchen at this Australian legend, it seems anything is possible.