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The Grand

In a dining scene thick with shared plates and molecular gastronomy, the no-nonsense Italian cooking at this pub dining room can seem almost radical. The Grand feels like the kind of old-school place where lunch could end at dinnertime (luckily, the room’s thick carpet and linen tablecloths help keep the noise levels in check). Attentive, if sometimes perfunctory service and an Italian-leaning wine list also add to the good times. The menu croons classic dishes made special by the kitchen’s light hand. Soft nubs of gnocchi come simply dressed with butter and fried sage leaves, while tender calamari arrives with just its char scent and a lemon wedge. From the signature vincisgrassi (a rich man’s lasagne) to the tiramisu, there’s understated elegance and simplicity. Even better, it all comes at reasonable prices, perhaps The Grand’s best old-school feature of all.