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The Grange

Cheong Liew’s expansive culinary imagination hasn’t dimmed after 13 years at The Grange. While many of his dishes from the 90s remain, the menu features some new quirks and thrills in dishes that shift through the seasons: roast pheasant with a winter melon and pheasant mousse, say, or marron, hazelnut and duck-neck sausage. The vegetarian dégustation can be especially interesting, taking in eggplant custard with fava bean purée, tomato and lentil sambal; smoked soy beans with enoki; leek fondue terrine with broccoli mousse and almond cream. Friendly waiters describe each dish in detail, and the menu’s wine matchings are smartly balanced. The setting, not entirely discrete from the goings-on in the lobby of the Hilton that is the restaurant’s home, leaves much to be desired, even if plush chairs make for a comfortable ride through what can be a lengthy adventure.