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The Press Club

There’s a real sense of drama here, whether from the flurry of chefs working the open kitchen, the good looks of the dining room, a wine list with a serious penchant for Hellenic labels or George Calombaris’s always interesting, sometimes brilliant, modern take on Greek food. An entrée of tender calamari makaronatha has calamari shredded to resemble fine fettuccine and partnered with cauliflower cream, cauliflower fritters and passionfruit. Fish of the day might arrive as a platter of small plates that include a traditionally pan-fried barramundi fillet and a greaseproof-paper cone of lightly fried prawns. Desserts are unusual, as with the chocolate and mastic fudge soufflé. Decision-phobics should opt for the kerasma (chef’s choice banquets), but only if they have a robust appetite. Service can get scatty at busy times but remains unfailingly pleasant and adds to the sense of theatre.