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The Press Club

While George Calombaris struts his stuff on TV, staff at his flagship restaurant strive to ensure it remains one of Melbourne’s favourite dining rooms. A freshly inventive rendering of Greek cuisine is delivered with panache by wait-staff expertly working the slick room. A Greek/ English dictionary would be handy for decoding the menu at times, but the food needs no translation once it hits the table – scallops are barely cooked, deeply flavoured on gingerbread foam, while an entrée of King George whiting sees fillets draped in sea vegetables with small pink bites of yabby. Lamb, a signature, may be served as a roast fillet with kohlrabi, borlotti beans and spicy capsicum and feta paste. Dessert chefs practise their delicate art on a large black marble slab in front of the open kitchen as they lay fans of roast pineapple between pastry and baklava-flavoured parfait. The flagship is on an even keel.