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The Wine Underground

Since reopening in late 2007 with a cool, modern interior of white-leather banquettes, embossed wallpaper and zebra-print carpet, The Wine Underground has pulled back from fine-dining extravagance. With Adam Liston at the stoves, dishes are built around comforting ingredients – pork belly with oyster cream and seared scallop; a lasagne-like cube of twice-cooked poussin, braised abalone and sweetcorn purée on a bed of lentils. They’re good looking dishes but Liston’s focus is on purity of flavours – evident in entrées of delicate beef carpaccio, and seared quail breast with puffs of quail popcorn, and an intense green apple sorbet dessert. The wine list contains some stars but is limited by the glass. Check out the bar menu in the bistro upstairs and for superb value opt for the two-course (entrée and main) $30 lunch deal in the basement restaurant.