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Vanitas

Versace is famous for its liberal use of bling, so expect nothing subtle about the dining room at the five-star hotel bearing the fashion label’s name. Its aim is in-your-face seduction, from the flickering candles to the gilded plateware. And, so long as you resist the Californian Royal Sterling caviar at $300, prices are equivalent to those of a typical upper-end city diner. Expect classic Euro-accented dishes such as a crépinette of braised veal shank with gnocchi, mushroom, speck and peas, while the mod Oz flag may be flown with seared kingfish with lime, coriander and dill salad with Moreton Bay bug dumplings. For dessert, a panna cotta with strawberry soup and honey yoghurt ice-cream is proficiently made, if not overly imaginative. The wine list, on the other hand, is extraordinary, with some special drops that will be decanted and poured with appropriate gravitas by the sommelier.