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Wasabi

As the menu says, time spent laughing is time spent with the gods, and a visit to Wasabi’s new quarters will certainly put a smile on your face. River vistas compete with the interior’s chic, minimalist lines. A tatami room overlooks a plush dining space, all polished boards, large windows and a mix of glossy chairs and leather banquettes. Chef Maeda’s food is equally eye-catching. The tasting menu gives an overview, or there’s an assortment of sashimi and nigiri and futomaki sushi. A la carte is for sharing; try kingfish scattered with toasted sesame seeds and fried ginger chips, or a delicate cylinder of big-eye tuna tartare and flying fish roe with yuzu miso and kinome. Petits fours – green-tea-dusted crème brûlée and Champagne jelly – should be mandatory, and please don’t ignore the sake, shochu and cocktails, either. The standard of service puts many fine diners to shame.