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Waters Edge

Aristocratic swans glide by, joggers dash past and couples amble. The newest fine-dining establishment from James Mussillon is a clean-lined white-and-glass design with a panoramic view of Lake Burley Griffin and its surrounds. As for the food, there’s innovation here, with combinations that are sometimes perplexing. Does the carefully cooked John Dory need a plate-mate of braised pork belly? Maybe, maybe not, but teamed with Japanese mushrooms, tofu and baby turnips, it’s a still-life painting in the making. Duck confit and roasted breast, apple, foie gras and roast garlic jus is a mellow/sharp combo, while the desserts are a treat for eye and palate. Try the lemon verbena semifreddo with cherry doughnuts. Sadly, though, it all palls when there’s a 30-minute wait for bread and water and lengthy gaps between courses. Snappy service is not on this menu, and it should be.