Friday, 12 June, 2009, 14:41 AEST

Tour de France Wine Tasting

It takes a brave wine lover to openly admit that they would drink more French wine if they could only understand the labels and the appellation system a little better. Fear not, as wine educator, Peter Bourne, is holding a special “Tour de France” event at his tasting room – Level 3, 123 Harris St, Pyrmont in Sydney. The two-session workshop, to be held on consecutive Tuesday nights, June 30 and July 7, at 6.30-9pm, will demystify label terminology while giving your taste buds a tour of the main regions and their varietals. The cost is $225 per person and bookings are essential. Phone (02) 9552 2366 or visit www.peterbourne.com for more information. - CONNELL NISBET

Friday, 22 May, 2009, 16:19 AEST

Richmond Grove... and Stuff White People Like

As official sponsor of the Sydney Writers Festival, Richmond Grove took great pleasure in organising a night of wine and words at Ottoman Cuisine in Sydney on Thursday, May 21. The words were provided by Canadian blogger-cum-author Christian Lander whose hilarious book Stuff White People Like (Hardie Grant Books) was recently a huge hit on the New York Times best-seller list. The wines were a selection of Limited Release drops from Richmond Grove, including a 2000 Riesling and a 2007 Sangiovese. As guests enjoyed the 2007 Pinot Noir served with chargrilled spicy mushrooms tossed in cumin, oregano and mild Aleppo chilli, host Simon Marnie held a very entertaining interview with Lander. The book, which started as a blog, is essentially a list parodying the many foibles of left-leaning, middle-class white people as if written for a travel guide. Be warned, if you are keen to read the book yourself, you could well be one of said white people Lander is targeting. Among the 150 things that white people like is #24 - Wine. - CONNELL NISBET

Thursday, 21 May, 2009, 16:37 AEST

Australian shiraz makes the world's most expensive list

Aussie boutique winemaker Tim Burvill scored a coup last month when a bottle of his 2004 RockBare Shiraz, which normally retails for $22, went under the hammer for $110,00. That's five thousand times its retail value.

The price paid makes this the third most expensive bottle of wine in the world.

According to Rockbare's WA area manager, the bottle originated from the Liberal Party Federal Women's Council in Canberra who had had it signed by former Prime Minister John Howard and former Deputy Prime Minister Mark Vaile. The bottle ended up in the Perth National's office where it sat for some time before being whisked away to Kalgoorlie for auction at the National Party conference.

Queensland-based iron-ore billionaire Clive Palmer bought the bottle.

The current 2007 vintage of RockBare Shiraz is can be acquired for a much more reasonable price. Visit www.rockbare.com.au for your local stockist. - JUDY SARRIS

Monday, 18 May, 2009, 12:40 AEST

The week in WINE: May 18, 2009

Prime Minister Forgets Queensland
According to an article in the Courier Mail (May 15, 2009), Prime Minister Kevin Rudd has passed over his home state when stocking the cellars at The Lodge and Kirribilli House. Apparently, every other wine-producing state in Australia is represented, but the only Queensland drop to be found behind the Prime Minister's bar was Bundaberg Rum. To be fair, Mr Rudd probably doesn't select the wines for the cellar himself, but whoever does would be well-advised to lay their hands on some of the sensational drops from Boireann.

Yellow Tail in Power 100
UK consultancy Intangible Business has named family-owned Aussie wine Yellow Tail the fourth most significant wine brand globally in its report The Power 100 - the world's most powerful spirits & wine brands, 2009. Now exported to more than 40 countries with, on average, more than 2 million glasses consumed around the world every day, the brand has come a long was since it's humble beginnings in 1969 when founders Filippo and Maria Casella began winemaking at Yenda in the Riverina.

Tahbilk Wins Gold in UK
Congratulations to Alister Purbrick and his team who last week picked up Gold for the 2007 Tahbilk Marsanne and Silver for the current vintage 2008 Marsanne at the 26th International Wine Challenge in the UK. Tahbilk is not only Victoria's oldest winery, but also boasts the world's largest and oldest planting of marsanne, not to mention some of the oldest shiraz vines on the planet. - JUDY SARRIS

Yarra Yering Cellar Opens
Earlier this month, Yarra Yering released its wines from the 2007 vintage at their historic cellar in Gruyere. Each year in autumn the cellar door opens until the wines have sold out, usually not for very long. This year that window will be even smaller, with the frost and drought affected 2007s in short supply.

A recent open day offered a taste of things to come, with new winemaker Paul Bridgeman (formerly of De Bortoli) presenting wines and chatting to the Yarra Yering faithful. It was also a tribute to the past, the first open day since the death of founder Dr Bailey Carrodus. Carrodus, an unorthodox but exceptionally talented vigneron-pioneer of the Yarra Valley, has been eulogised in a range of premium wines bearing his name. "The Doctor would spin in his grave if he knew we had done this, but it is a fitting tribute," Bridgeman commented on the day. The range, priced at $150 per bottle and limited in quantity, consists of 2007 Yara Yering Carrodus Cabernet Merlot, 2007 Yarra Yering Carrodus Merlot and 2007 Yarra Yering Carrodus Viognier.

Those lucky enough to attend were treated not only to the 2007 wines, which are great (seek out the Dry Red Wine No. 1), but also tastings of rare older vintages including a 1989 Dry Red Wine No. 2 and a 1994 Underhill Shiraz. Another surprise for those gathered was the enduring vitality of the 1990 Chardonnay. Best of all was a recently disgorged 1995 Blanc de Noirs, unearthed by Bridgeman when he explored the cellar on his appointment. This wine had 14 years on lees and is singing. Hopefully Dr Carrodus has hidden away some more gems to be released in the years ahead! - TIM SHAND

Monday, 20 April, 2009, 13:59 AEST

The week in WINE: April 13-19, 2009

Wine Industry Legend Max Lake Dies
At about the same time as Gourmet Traveller Wine contributor and wine auctioneer Andrew Caillard filed his copy about the classic wines of Australia (to appear in the June/July issue of the magazine) it was announced that wine industry legend Max Lake had passed away in his home in Longueville after suffering a fall. The coincidence lies in the fact that a good part of Caillard's article is devoted to explaining the importance of Lake's contribution to Australia's fine wine scene.

As many will know, Max Lake (1924-2009) was not only a brilliant surgeon, but built Hunter Valley winery Lake's Folly, considered to be one of the country's first boutique wineries, and was the author of numerous books including Classic Wines of Australia, which portrays the emerging fine wine culture of Australia during the 1960s and Hunter Wine. A wise and innovative man who has made an outstanding contribution to the wine industry, Max Lake will be sadly missed.

Aussie Albariño Loses Identity
It seems that the albariño some Australian winemakers think they have been producing may not, in fact, be albariño at all. After the CSIRO recently did a spot of testing, they discovered that the DNA of their albariño plants actually matched the savagnin grape and, as a result, all their samples will be renamed.

The trouble is, this impacts on all producers who sourced their material from CSIRO including Tscharke, Australia's first and largest producer of albariño. No one could be more surprised than Damien Tscharke who was certain that CSIRO's research on the albariño identity would prove positive reflecting the characteristics of the Spanish variety - including clonical cluster, multiple pips and berry size and colour - which he sees every day in his vineyard. He's now pursuing his own testing to confirm the results. In the meantime, producers are left uncertain what they're bottling and labelling, consumers are bound to be confused about what they're drinking and the wine industry is pondering exactly who should be responsible for ensuring correct varietal identification. Could this be the tip of the iceberg, and will other incorrectly identified varietals soon be revealed?

Merger at Mudgee
Award-winning winery and organic vineyard, Thistle Hill has merged with neighbouring vineyard Erudgere in order to expand their production of premium organic wines. Erudgere is under conversion to organic certification and is one of three vineyards in the region with grade-A plantations of shiraz and cabernet. Erudgere's cellar door will serve as an outlet for both labels, which will eventually unite to become the Thistle Hill brand, while Michael Slater who currently makes Erudgere's wines, will also become winemaker for Thistle Hill.

Thursday, 9 April, 2009, 14:31 AEST

The week in WINE: April 2-9, 2009

2005 Hill of Grace Launch
Last week, on April 2, Gourmet Traveller WINE attended an exceptional lunch at Neil Perry's recently opened Sydney Rockpool Bar & Grill to celebrate the launch of The 2005 Henschke Hill of Grace. Coincidentally, this was the same day the team at Henschke started harvesting the fruit for this year's vintage of the wine.

We strongly suggest you raid the piggy bank to lay your hands on some 2005 Hill of Grace as it comes from one of the best vintages on record. Made from shiraz grapes sourced from vines planted in South Australia's Eden Valley in around the 1860s, the 2005 is a vibrant, deep crimson with aromas of blackberry, mulberry and plum and a touch of cedar and Asian spice. The palate is soft and lush finishing with fine tannins and great length and intensity. Perry's Greenham's 54 Degree Slow-Cooked Sirloin served with Bernaise was the perfect foil for the wine which drinks beautifully now or, if you can keep your hands off, it can be cellared until 2025. www.henschke.com.au

Taylors' Archibald Tasting
The following night Taylors, who are the official wine sponsor of the Art Gallery Society of NSW, invited us to view the 2009 Archibald exhibition and to taste the latest release from their vineyards. Of the whites, our favourite was the 2008 Taylors Jaraman Chardonnay ($24.95) made from a blend of grapes from the Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills. Full of fleshy stone-fruit flavours with a touch of cashew and spice provided by French oak and a creamy mid-palate, this is a lovely drink. So too is the 2004 Taylors St Andrews Shiraz ($59.95) full of complex blackberry, spice and a touch of cedar. As for the art, Jimmy Barnes by Ben Quilty and David Helfgott by Cherry Hood were among our favourites. www.taylorswines.com.au

Vineyard News
This week, we were surprised and saddened to hear Olssens of Bannockburn in Central Otago, NZ, is up for sale. Winemaker John Olssen says "we have been in business for 20 years, this year, and it's time for a break and a change". In this economic climate, it will be a challenge to find the right person to take over this unique family business that has delighted us with pinot noirs such as Slapjack Creek Reserve, Jackson Barry and Nipple Hill - not to mention some delicious chardonnay. Anyone interested should visit www.olssens.co.nz for a business overview or contact John Olssen at john@olssens.co.nz.

Congratulations to Bill and Lena Calabria whose Westend Estate Wines in the Riverina was named NSW Family Business of the Year in Category Three (third-generation children or family relations of the second generation and now managing the business). The family's first wines were made in a laundry tub over half a century ago. Today they have around 50 employees and export to 25 countries around the world. Not bad for a winemaker who is a teetotaller. Bill Calabria suffers from a rare allergy to fruit acid in grapes but says "you don't have to swallow them to know if they're good or not." www.westendestate.com

Crown Ambassador Vintage Release
It's an exciting time for beer lovers in Australia as Crown Ambassador continues to carve out a new niche in the marketplace for limited-edition vintage releases. On April 8, the yet-to-be released 2009 Crown Ambassador Reserve Lager was paired with its predecessor, the 2008, for an early vertical tasting. Sydney restaurant Bécasse was the venue and chef and restaurateur Justin North clearly took great pleasure in creating an extraordinary menu inspired by the new Reserve release. The veal baked in hay and salt-crusted flavours of Ambassador, cepe puree, sauté of sprout leaves and confit chestnuts with a Crown jus was the ideal compliment to the two full-bodied, rich lagers. So spare some space in your cellar because the rare '08 has matured beautifully and the '09 is showing plenty of promise. For more information, visit www.crownbeverages.com.au.

Cool as a Cucumber
Those who enjoy a splash of gin on occasion may wish to extend their repertoire to include Hendrick's, to at least see what all the fuss is about. This premium gin distilled in Ayshire, Scotland, by the gentle folk at William Grant & Son, is infused with cucumber and rose petal for a very smooth and subtle experience. There are also suggestions of coriander, orris root and cubeb berries. Global brand ambassador Xavier Padovani was in Sydney during April presenting gin master classes for the uninitiated [see the Gourmet Traveller blog for an interview with him]. He had plenty of dazzling recipes for a late-afternoon tipple but suggests a simple G & T (1/3 Hendrick's to 2/3 tonic water over ice) with a slice of cucumber as a wonderful introduction. It's only produced in tiny batches so be sure to keep an eye out for the dark, stumpy apothecary's bottle. www.clubsuntory.com.au - JUDY SARRIS & CONNELL NISBET

Monday, 23 March, 2009, 14:05 AEST

The week's best wine stories: March 23, 2009

The World's Oldest Champagne
The world's oldest Champagne was opened in France last week as part of Perrier-Jouët's celebration of their most recent vintage - 2002, reports the Times in London. There was plenty of apprehension in the crowd of critics as the cork was carefully removed from the bottle of 1825 Perrier-Jouët, which had been sealed 184 years ago when George IV was still the King of England. The historic drop was very well received by all who were lucky enough to taste it. Olivier Cavil of Perrier-Jouët said, "Although there was only a hint of bubbles left it was perfectly fresh, the colour was fine and it resembled a very great Chablis, with a note of white truffles and chocolate." There's even a chance for more character development with another two bottles of the 1825 still in the cellar.

Health Warning Push Snuffed Out
Plans to impose mandatory health warnings for alcohol advertisements were knocked on the head last week when Family First Senator blocked the Federal Government's proposed RTD tax hike bill. According to The Shout website, the idea was pushed by Greens and Independent senators in return for their support of the bill but all concessions were dropped when the bill failed to get off the ground.

US Eyes the NZ Market
The US-based Saint James Company is set to acquire three New Zealand wineries. The Just-Drinks website reported that although financial terms were not disclosed, the wineries involved are Lawson Dry Hills, Waimea Estates and Gravitas Wines. Wayne Gronquist, president of the Saint James Company, said, "The Saint James Company expects to generate substantial revenues from this portfolio once we begin to import these wines into the US and UK markets."

Seasons Plate in the City
Wyndham Estate celebrated another Seasons Plate lunch at Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens on Saturday, March 14. Newly appointed senior winemaker, Nigel Dolan, walked guests through the impressive line-up of wines, which were matched with chef Jason Roberts exemplary cuisine. One of the highlights was the 2005 George Wyndham Shiraz served with Muscovy duck, braised green lentils, roasted beetroot and duck neck sausage (which Roberts proudly pointed out was hand-stuffed by his girlfriend). - CONNELL NISBET

Friday, 6 March, 2009, 16:46 AEST

Taste of Sydney

We’d like to remind Sydneysiders to drop in on the Taste of Sydney to be held at Centennial Park from Thursday, March 12 to Sunday, March 15. Gourmet Traveller WINE contributor Nick Stock will be conducting a whole range of sensational tastings in the Taste Wine Theatre sponsored by the magazine. Sessions include Pinot Picnic, a tasting journey through Australia’s most exciting pinot noir regions; Asian Flavours, where you’ll learn how to match wine to exotic cuisines; Young Modern Hunter at which we introduce the young-gun winemakers evolving Hunter classics into modern star wines; Sommelier Showdown, where wine experts from top restaurants demonstrate their skills; and Italian Al Fresco, where you can taste your way through top Australian wines made from Italian grapes – plus don’t miss out on the Chandon Sparkling Masterclass.  For more information, visit www.tasteofsydney.com.au or call Ticketek on 132 849 to book. - JUDY SARRIS

Tuesday, 24 February, 2009, 12:10 AEST

Supporting the Yarra

As the bushfires continue to threaten parts of Victoria, one region is keen to let the wine lovers of Australia know that it’s down but not out. Yarra Valley Wine Growers Association and Yarra Ranges Regional Marketing have created a new website, yarravalleytoday.com.au, to let everyone know exactly which Yarra Valley wineries are open, which are close to opening and which are definitely out of action. Getting people back into the region is the best form of support imaginable, so check out the website and plan a weekend in the Valley. - CONNELL NISBET

Friday, 20 February, 2009, 12:58 AEST

The week in wine: 16-20 Feb 2009

Taste the Difference
Lovers of Kiwi wines who are looking for something a little out of the ordinary should book a table at Melbourne’s Vue de Monde for Monday night, February 24. During this special New Zealand wine dinner, less common varietals, such as gewürztraminer, syrah and even grappa, will be served, while industry insiders share their insights on the terroir of the North and South islands. Of course, there will also be plenty of sav blanc and pinot to keep the purists happy. Tickets are $195 per person. Reservations essential on  (03) 9691 3838 .

Highest Honour
It’s official – the humble wine cask is a national icon. The much-loved inflatable goon of good times and sore heads can now lift its tap with pride alongside the Hills hoist and the Victa lawnmower. Australia Post is set to release a new series of local stamps celebrating eight of the nation’s finest creations. Fittingly, the cask will be sharing its lickable monument with that other backyard favourite, the esky (it could have been worse – budgie smugglers made into the final cut as well). Ask for the Inventive Australia series at your local post office.

Barbecue Cocktails
Finding a cocktail that compliments or cuts through the flavours of barbecued meat or seafood can be the difference between a good party and a great one. Bar consultant at Sydney’s Hilton Zeta Bar, Grant Collins, has given the task a lot of thought and has come up with some terrific ideas. Think barbecued scallops in a light caramelised sauce of palm sugar and fish sauce served on their shells with a citrus gimlet of vodka or gin with fresh lime and lemon peel. Barbecue beef skewers? Add a little Cajun spice to the meat then make a Bloody Mary with roasted tomatoes and a dash of the same Cajun spices. If you decide to go to Zeta to do some more “research”, ask about the Zeta shandy – a shot of Asahi beer topped with lemonade foam – it’s a quirky barby starter and a definite winner on a hot day.

Secrets Behind Winning Wine Lists Reminder
Don’t miss the opportunity to gain a deeper appreciation of how a good wine list enhances the food and wine experience while sampling wine from the best lists in Australia. Join Gourmet Traveller WINE and Fine Wine Partners, in association with Acqua Panna, to explore lists from Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards. There are still a few spots left for both sessions, which run from 6-8pm. Tickets are $25 per head.
Melbourne - Taxi Dining Room on February 24; call  (0....
Sydney - Rockpool on February 25; call  (0....

- CONNELL NISBET

Wednesday, 18 February, 2009, 09:55 AEST

After the fire

Max Allen reports on the impact of the bushfires to the wine industry after driving out to the Yarra Valley on Friday.
 
Along the Maroondah Highway between Lilydale and Healesville, there was little indication that the region had been attacked by a firestorm just a few days before. Vineyards, wineries and restaurants on the main tourist strip are untouched.

It's only when you get off the main drag, up St Huberts Road, out past Yarra Glen, through Dixons Creek or along the Healesville-Yarra Glen Road that you can trace, in the blackened paddocks, scorched trees and burned vine rows, the frantic course of the fire on that dreadful Saturday last week.
 
And it's not until you drive up through Steels Creek that you come face-to-face with the full, horrific extent of the tragedy.
 
Kate Kirkhope, whose biodynamically farmed Kiltynane Estate vineyard is on the Healesville-Yarra Glen at Tarrawarra, is putting on a brave face. She says she's one of the lucky ones. She had a good vintage in 2008, so there is wine in the cellar, waiting to be sold. But there will be no 2009 vintage, as Kate's vineyard was completely burned last Saturday.
 
I hadn't heard about what happened at Kiltynane before I went out to the valley. So it was a shock to turn the bend in the road coming out from Healesville and come across the charred vineyard.
 
Somehow, Kate and her partner managed to save the house, the winery and the stables, but the fire claimed all the land around. Some of the four hectares of pinot noir will probably bounce back, but she says the lower block, the vines that felt the full force of the fire as it came in from the south-west, may have to be bulldozed.
 
Kiltynane is one of many vineyards that were damaged or destroyed by fire in the Yarra Valley and other parts of Victoria last weekend. And the danger is not yet passed; no-one's relaxed.
 
Will de Castella, from Jean Paul's Vineyard outside Yea, where fires are still burning, emailed me yesterday, neatly summing up the situation. Will lost most of his vineyard to bushfires in 2006, so he's acutely aware of the danger: "The fires have been to the south, the west, and the east of us, all about 5-10 km away. I have spent the last week on the fire truck. The smoke is more of a concern at this stage, but the fires are not out yet."
 
WHAT YOU CAN DO
Some of these events may have sold out already, but it's still good to be aware of how people are trying to help.
 
The Australian Wine Trade Bushfire Raffle
Since sending out a call for donations on Friday, Bert Werden from WineStar has been inundated by the most remarkable collection of wines and other prizes for a major fundraising raffle. You can support those communities and individuals affected by the bushfires as well as be in the running to win some incredible vinous prizes worth more than $65,000. All prizes have been kindly donated by members of the Australian Wine Trade.

1st prize       $25,000 wine cellar
2nd prize      $10,00 wine cellar
3rd prize       $5,000 wine cellar

In addition, there are 30 other wine-related prizes being given away. Each of these is valued between $2,500 and $400.

Tickets are $25 each and all proceeds will be donated in full to The Australian Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal.

The raffle closes at midnight on the 11th March 2009. For more details, visit www.wineark.com.au.

Libertine Benefit Dinner
Zoe and Nick at Libertine French Dining Room in North Melbourne are holding a special fundraising dinner on March 2 to pay tribute to much-loved wine distributor Rob Davey and his young family, who died in the fire at Kinglake last weekend. Cost is $145 a head, with all proceeds going to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal.
(03) 9329 5228, info@libertinedining.com.au
 
La Luna Bistro Benefit Dinner
Adrian Richardson and the team at this renowned Carlton bistro are holding a fundraising dinner on February 23. Cost is $70 and all proceeds go to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal.
www.lalunabistro.com.au
 
Long Live the Healesville Hotel
Despite having to close due to the threat of the fires, and being broken into on Sunday night, the hotel - a favourite haunt for the Yarra's wine community - is open again and needs your patronage, as do all the region's restaurants and cellar doors. Recovery special: the pub's famous burger and a beer for $15. What are you waiting for?
www.healesvillehotel.com.au

Sommeliers Australia
Still on the drawing board but the plan is, during the month of March, for sommeliers across Australia to pour wines from those vineyards affected by the fires, to help out financially and also to maintain awareness and support.
www.sommeliers.com.au

Friday, 13 February, 2009, 13:12 AEST

Kings of the 2009 Sydney Royal Wine Show

Congratulations to Mornington Peninsula’s Paringa Estate who collected a swag of awards last night at the 2009 Macquarie Group Sydney Royal Wine Show, including the top gong for their 2006 Paringa Estate Shiraz. Of the 2355 wines entered by 357 exhibitors, Paringa Estate took home five Gold Medals and five Trophies. Owner-winemaker Lindsay McCall was also a finalist in the Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the Year Awards in 2008.

Another winner at the Sydney Royal Wine Show was Tyrell’s. The 2005 Tyrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon was honoured with the Albert Chan Memorial Trophy for the Best White Wine of Show. This is the third time Tyrell’s has collected this prestigious award in five years. They also nabbed the trophy for Best White Wine in the Premium Class with their 2004 Tyrell’s HVD Semillon, and another for the Most Successful Exhibitor.

Thursday, 12 February, 2009, 11:47 AEST

Victorian bushfires: the wine industry's quick response

BUSHFIRE DOZEN
Andrew Kemeny of Kemenys has organised for more than 2000 dozen wines to be donated so that he can put together special Bushfire Dozens, which should raise around $270,000 for the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal. The dozens will cost $150 each and all proceeds will go to the appeal. 

Valued at over $195.00, this is an extremely good value and all proceeds, excluding GST, from the sale of this mixed dozen, including the delivery fee*, will go to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal. So, not only do you get to enjoy top-quality Australian wine at a very low price, you will also be supporting fellow Australians in their hour of need.

Collectively the following wine companies have generously donated over 2000 dozen bottles of wine free of charge: 
Beresford Wines, Bimbadgen Estate, Brown Brothers, Browns of Padthaway, Buddha’s Wine, By Farr, Cape Jaffa Wines, Coonawarra Premium Vineyards, De Bortoli, Delatite, Geoff Hardy’s Unsung Heroes, Grant Burge, Hungerford Hill, Mitolo Wines, O’Leary Walker Wines, Philip Shaw, Rex Watson, Rumball, Scarborough, Stefani Estate, Taylors, Tyrrell’s, Wild Oats, Cameron's Transport, Wettenhalls Transport.

To order a Kemenys Victorian Bushfire Appeal Mixed Dozen telephone Kemenys on 138 881 or email order@kemenys.com.au

* Allied Couriers will deliver wines free of charge, so the delivery fee will also be donated to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal.

STEFANI ESTATE
We're seeing many cases of amazing generosity within the wine industry. For example, Stefani Estate in Heathcote, who lost wine and 60-70 per cent of their fruit due to heat damage, offered to donate their last 20 dozen bottles of pinot gris to the Kemenys Bushfire Dozens appeal.

STONES OF THE YARRA VALLEY TO HOST MAJOR BUSHFIRE FUNDRAISER WITH FOOD AND WINE INDUSTRY ICONS
On Sunday, March 8, Stones of the Yarra Valley will bring together six of the most celebrated chefs in Australia for a major fundraising event to support victims of Victoria's tragic bushfires.

In what is an unprecedented line-up of industry icons, Greg Malouf from MoMo, The Press Club's George Calombaris, Frank Camorra from MoVida, Riccardo Momesso from Sarti, The Brasserie's Philippe Mouchel and Ian Curley from The European will all contribute a course to what promises to be an extraordinary menu.

In addition, Yarra Valley resident and doyen of Australian wine James Halliday will personally design the wine list from exquisite product provided by interstate wineries.

100 per cent of the ticket price will be donated to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal, and Stones of the Yarra Valley expects the event to raise more than $40,000.

This event will sell out early, so book now and support this extraordinary cause.

Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009
Time: 11.30am pre-lunch drinks - 4pm finish
Cost: $200 per head to include all food and wines - 100 per cent of this ticket price will be donated to the Red Cross Victorian Bushfire Appeal.
Venue: Stones of the Yarra Valley - 14 St Huberts Road, Coldstream - Melways 275 H11
Bookings: (03) 9739 0900 or info@stonesoftheyarravalley.com
Website: www.stonesoftheyarravalley.com

- JUDY SARRIS

Friday, 6 February, 2009, 11:52 AEST

The week in wine: 2-6 Feb 2009

Rewarding Excellence
Regular Gourmet Traveller WINE contributor Peter Forrestal was totally gob smacked when Darren Jahn, President of Wine Communicators Australia, along with fellow judges Jancis Robinson MW and James Halliday announced that he'd won the Wine Communicators Award for 2009 at a lunch held at City Tattersalls Club on February 4. Forrestal was the founding editor of Gourmet Traveller WINE, chairman of judges for the Winemaker of the Year Awards and Wine List of the Year Awards and has written 30 books on wine. As many of us know, Forrie detests the use of the word 'award-winning' when describing wine. We can only hope nobody describes him as an award-winning wine writer - even though he is.

Endangered Species
At the same event, Jancis Robinson, who had just flown in from attending pinot celebrations in Central Otago, gave a lecture to the members of the WCA entitled Are Wine Writers and Endangered Species? Robinson warned that wine writers in the US and the UK seem to be fast losing column space. This may be due to the fact that more and more people are visiting wine websites or swapping recommendations online. Fortunately, many Australians still value the recommendations of wine writers who are usually the first to discover noteworthy drops and are in a position to properly assess them against comparable wines and previous vintages - not to mention sharing a good yarn about a winemaker or a worthwhile region to visit.

Perfect Match
On Monday, February 9, Gourmet Traveller WINE and Fine Wine Partners in conjunction with Acqua Panna will launch the Wine List of the Year Awards 2009 at a Bollinger Afternoon Tea held at Rockpool in Sydney. Sommeliers and restaurant owners throughout Australia have been invited to hear more about how to enter this year's awards. Restaurants, clubs, bar, bistros and hotels interested in entering their list into the WLOTY Awards should visit www.winelistoftheyear.com.au.

New Zealand's Finest
It was a celebration of all things Kiwi at the Centennial Parklands restaurant in Sydney on Thursday night, February 5, as Montana commemorated 30 years of their world-class sauvignon blanc. This eve of Waitangi Day event was hosted by TV celebrity Richard Wilkins and Montana senior winemaker, Patrick Materman. Guests enjoyed the rare privilege - usually reserved for the Wallabies before the Bledisloe kick off - to be confronted by Mãori dancers in traditional dress performing the Haka. The highlight of the night was, of course, the skilful matching of Montana sauvignon blancs, chardonnays and pinot noirs to a menu devised by three of New Zealand's other great exports, chefs Jason Roberts, Warren Turnbull and Justin North. - CONNELL NISBET

Friday, 24 October, 2008, 11:24 AEST

First past the post

An impressive line up of talented winemakers donned their tuxedos and evening gowns for the 2008 NSW Wine of the Year awards held at Coast Restaurant in Cockle Bay Wharf this week. It was a proud moment for Brian Agnew whose Audrey Wilkinson Museum Reserve Semillon, Hunter Valley, $35, took the top gong. No stranger to the odd trophy, Agnew can also lay claim to winning a Melbourne Cup. It was his horse, Sub Zero, that galloped home for victory in 1992.  - CONNELL NISBET

Tuesday, 21 October, 2008, 10:17 AEST

Bad boys and good wines

Last week, Gourmet Traveller WINE met up with winemaker, Steve Webber from De Bortoli for a 'Bad Boys' lunch (although girls were also present) held at Sydney's Quay restaurant where we tasted a selection of his wines and compared them with French counterparts.

We kicked off with 2008 De Bortoli Estate Grown Pinot Noir Rosé, $23, a dry and pale Mediterranean-style wine, and totally removed from the bright pink lolly water we, unfortunately, so often find. To give you an idea, when stood against a 2007 Domaine Tempier Rosé, the local wine was almost identical in colour. The Tempier had punchier fruit once you stuck your nose in the glass, but we wouldn't object to a bottle of either wine on a warm summer day.

The notion that everything from the 2007 vintage in the Yarra is smoky is "bullshit!" according to Webber. He went on to say: "There will be lots mentioned in the media, and probably more permanent classifications, about vintage 2007 in some regions, and whether it is poor, average, good, very good or of exceptional quality. I would ask you to consider the unimportance of such overall classifications and general sweeping statements. Just like a good wine retailer or sommelier giving you advice on what to buy, you must trust the better winemakers to produce interesting and delicious wines which reflect the region and the season regardless of conditions. A good producer will not release wines that are inferior. A good producer will have adapted how he or she has grown, fermented and matured the final wines to create a recognisable vineyard or blended style. A good producer won't make apologies for the seasonal differences but would ask that you appreciate the nuances that each can bring to the wine."

We certainly enjoyed his 2007 Yarra Valley Estate Grown Pinot Noir, $38, which was compared with 2006 Domaine de La Pousse d'Or 1er Cru '60 Ouvrees; his 2007 Yarra Valley Estate Grown Chardonnay, $30, drunk alongside a 2006 Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru, Les Butteaux; and his 2007 Reserve Release Syrah, $60, with which he chose the exquisite 2005 Domaine August Clape Cornas as the comparative wine.

For further information about De Bortoli wines visit www.debortoli.com.au. - JUDY SARRIS

Tuesday, 30 September, 2008, 15:46 AEST

In memoriam

The wine world is mourning the loss of two industry greats. Dr Bailey Carrodus, founder of Yarra Yering who was famous for his wine philosophy “if it doesn’t work, tip it out”, passed away on September 19 after a short illness. He was one of our Aussie winemaking legends who had an amazing influence on many others, including Tim Kirk of Clonakilla. On the same day, Loire Valley winemaker Didier Dagueneau, whose praises we sang in Earthly Pleasures (Gourmet Traveller WINE Feb/Mar 2008), sadly died in a light plane accident. He will be remembered for his amazing work with organic vineyards and for producing excellent Pouilly-Fume. - JUDY SARRIS

Tuesday, 30 September, 2008, 12:09 AEST

Popping thrills

(L to R: John Leydon; Director of Champagne Information Centre Elisabeth Drysdale; Martin Williams; Wiremu Andrews)

It was all fine bubbles, exquisite cuisine and harbour views for the 2008 Vin de Champagne Awards held at the Sydney Opera House last week. The awards, a bi-annual event recognising excellence in the knowledge of all things Champagne, are divided into three categories: Student, Amateur and Professional. Gourmet Traveller WINE contributors, Peter Bourne and Huon Hooke were on the judging panel, and Sophie Otton was a finalist in the Professional category. This year’s winners are Wiremu Andrews (Vic), Student; John Leydon (SA), Amateur; and Martin Williams (Vic), Professional. They each receive a two-week educational tour of the Champagne region to further their appreciation.

The talking point of the black tie event was the magnificent tastings of Champagne – 16 different bottles served with a stunning seven-course degustation menu (including Longnose point oysters, a sashimi of Hiramasa kingfish with sterling caviar and a roasted breast of Barossa Valley chicken on Paris mash) prepared by Bennelong chef, Guillaume Brahimi. We loved the 1998 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, 2002 Veuve Clicquot and the Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particulière.
- CONNELL NISBET & LISA FEATHERBY

Thursday, 18 September, 2008, 11:35 AEST

Discovering McGuigan

The beachside restaurant at Nielsen Park in Sydney was the perfect spot to taste a selection of wines from the McGuigan Discover range destined to be popular in the warmer weather. We liked the crisp Rosé ($15.99) bursting with red berry flavours, but fresh on the finish, and the light, zingy Moscato ($15.99) full of floral citrus flavours. In fact, they nearly impressed us as much as the antics of a pod of dolphins that entertained off shore during the entire tasting. Visit www.mcguiganwines.com.au. - JUDY SARRIS

Friday, 12 September, 2008, 10:49 AEST

Wine and dine

Gourmet Traveller WINE met up with Frankland River winemaker Kim Horton at new Sydney wine spot Time To Vino to taste his 2005 Ferngrove The Stirlings, ($50). Only the fourth vintage to be released, this opulent drop is made from a blend of shiraz (57%) and cabernet sauvignon (43%) sourced from barrels Horton considers to be the absolute best of the vintage. The Stirlings is certainly worth tracking down and Time To Vino is definitely worth a visit, not only for its wine list, but also for the delicious made to share morsels dished up by the kitchen.  - JUDY SARRIS

PS: Horton recommends we lay our hands on the 2008 Margaret River reds as they're an exceptional vintage.

For more info about Ferngrove wines from the Frankland River visit www.ferngrove.com.au.

Time To Vino 66 Stanley St, Darlinghurst, (02) 9380 4252, www.timetovino.com.

Thursday, 4 September, 2008, 16:33 AEST

Top of the class

Congratulations to Sydney sommelier Ben Moechtar who was dux of the class at the prestigious Certified Sommeliers Exams, which were run by the Court of Master Sommeliers in Sydney and Melbourne over the past week. Ben, who runs Delicado in North Sydney (featured on p15 of our current issue) and is the Joint President of Sommeliers Australia, is now well on his way to achieving the world’s most highly regarded accreditation of Master Sommelier.
 
The program was conducted by visiting Master sommeliers Brian Juylan (UK) and Darius Allyn and Tim Gaiser (USA) who put 150 wine types from some of Sydney and Melbourne’s best-known restaurants through the hoops. Twenty-three sommeliers from Sydney and 24 from Melbourne were awarded their Certified Sommeliers certificates and pins, and the top 11 students have been invited to attempt the Advanced Certificate next year in the UK or the US.

They include Ben Edwards (Joint President, Sommeliers Australia), Ben Knight (Benandwine), David Lawler (Rockpool), Liam O’Brien (Circa, The Prince), Kim Bickley (Glass), Andrew Cullen (Bilson’s), Peter Healy (Marque), Franck Moreau (The Ivy, Ash St Cellars), Tilak Sinha (Auberge du Soleil) and James Erskine (Auge) from Adelaide. - JUDY SARRIS

Friday, 29 August, 2008, 10:22 AEST

Wine in focus

Last week, members of the Gourmet Traveller WINE team trooped down to Wine Focus held at the MCA in Sydney to taste a range of wines, mainly from smaller producers, who'd scored 4 stars or more in the latest edition of James Halliday Australian Wine Companion. We were very taken with Beechworth winemaker Keppell Smith's 2006 Savaterre Chardonnay ($75), plus his 2006 Pinot Noir ($75) should be a cracker in a couple years time. If you can't wait that long, decant for a couple of hours before drinking. Visit www.savaterre.com.  - JUDY SARRIS

Thursday, 7 August, 2008, 10:00 AEST

Wine List of the Year Awards event

It’s official, Australia’s best wine list is to be found at Victorian restaurant Taxi Dining, perched high over Federation Square, and Lincoln Riley of Taxi has been named the Judy Hirst Sommelier of the Year. These awards, as well as awards for State and Category winners were announced at Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards, presented at the Art Gallery of NSW by Gourmet Traveller Wine and Fine Wine Partners. Fittingly, guests sipped on an exceptional selection of wines from Petaluma, Brokenwood, Henschke and more, out of Riedel glassware, and were kept well-hydrated by sponsor Acqua Panna. After the event, swarms of sommeliers from around Australia hit some of Sydney’s favourite wine venues, including the newly opened Ash Street Cellars in Angel Place and old favourite Longrain on Commonwealth St, Surry Hills. For the rest of the Award results, check out our online Wine List of the Year feature. - JUDY SARRIS

Tuesday, 10 June, 2008, 09:23 AEST

French wine goes au naturel

A quiet revolution is underway in French winemaking. Vignerons throughout the country now realise the damage that chemical sprays and artificial fertilisers have caused to their soil and are moving to organic and biodynamic farming methods. And this philosophy is also being extended to the production of wines using minimal intervention and use of additives.

Wine bars and cave á manger (wine shops that also serve food) are opening up everywhere in Paris promoting the virtues of 'natural' wines, many having their entire selection devoted to the cause.

Natural wines mean different things to different people but some features are beyond dispute. The vines must be tended organically and, preferably, biodynamically. Many of the proponents work the land by hand, maybe with the help of horses to plough the soil. No chemicals and no artificial fertilizers are ever used. In the winemaking process itself, the wines are left to ferment to completion using only natural yeasts, never commercial yeasts. And, most controversially, natural winemakers use little or no sulphites to stabilise the wines.

The end result is often a surprisingly lively wine with amazing freshness and deep concentrated flavour that fully expresses the nature of the fruit from which it was made.

Because the wines don't travel easily, the best way to discover them is to come to Paris and visit wine shops and wine bars that specialise in natural wines. One of the best is Racines, the new home of Pierre Jancou, who combines a wine shop with a small café where only natural wines are teamed with some of the finest organic and biodynamic foods (vegetables from Alain Passard's biodynamic garden, Lardo di Colonnata by Fausto Guadagni and dairy products from Jean-Yves Bordier).

At Racines, we tried wines by Claude Courtois and Eric Pfifferling. In the Solonge region of the Loire Valley, Courtois has rescued a tract of land that was regarded as dead from overuse to produce white and red wines using natural processes. His white wine Quartz is always available by the glass at Racines and is the perfect introduction to the potential of natural winemaking. Courtois' difficult to find Petit Coin de Paradis, a slightly sweet white Vin de Table made from the obscure Menu Pineau grape, is also on the list at Racines. Eric Pfifferling makes wine at his Mas de l'Anglore estate in Tavel, in the southern Rhone, a region better known for its rosé. We drank a vibrant red Vin de Table called Terre d'Ombre, made mainly from Grenache.

But there are many more natural wines to hunt out and places to hunt for them. Try the Arbois Pupillin by winemaker Pierre Overnoy for something very different. In the glass, this pale, limpid red wine looks fragile but it has structure and complexity that belies its shy appearance. If you are still hard to convince then one sip of the amazing, velvet-like Cote du Py Morgon by Jean Foillard will make you a life long convert to natural wines.

Racines, 8 Passage des Panoramas, Paris 75002. Tel. +33 1 4013 0641  - SUE DYSON AND ROGER MCSHANE

Thursday, 15 May, 2008, 11:05 AEST

Raising the bar

Interested in trying Champagne by the flight to compare nuances of different house styles? It's not what you'd expect in downtown Denver, but the revitalised LoDo district is the new arbiter of cool - in which Champagne bar Corridor 44 (1433 Larimer Street, ph: 303 893 0044) is playing a major part. Since opening two years ago, owner Brian Siffermann came upon the idea for Champagne flights to encourage more vigorous consumption of more Champagne brands, offering three pours of French brut for $US20, rosé styles or US sparklings for $US18, or a "varietal flight" (Louis Bouillot Perle d'Ivoire/blanc de blanc, Gruet Blanc de Noir and Il Faggeto Prosecco) for $US16. Not surprisingly, they are proving very popular, and stimulating increased bottle sales. Beyond this, the bar staff serve 18 sparkling options by the glass, more than 80 choices by the bottle - from tiny, obscure houses (Moncuit, Alfred Gratien, Philipponnat) to Dom Perignon and Krug with quality Spanish Cava, Californian sparkling and Australian sparkling shiraz rounding out the mix. The décor is as elegant as the wine list, with baroque mirrors, gold embossed wallpaper and studded white leather banquettes, while the bar name is derived from a 44ft-long corridor separating the front bar from a very exclusive function room at the rear. - DAVID SLY

Friday, 9 May, 2008, 15:58 AEST

Chateau Palmer dinner at Catalina

Château Palmer is regarded as one of Bordeaux's 'super second' growths and a favourite among Australian wine collectors. So when Bernard de Laage de Meux and Laurent Delassus from Château Palmer made a rare visit to Australia,  Gourmet Traveller WINE met up with them for a mini vertical tasting organised by Andrew Caillard, MW at Catalina, Rose Bay. As Caillard says, Château Palmer is ranked second in Margaux behind first growth Château Margaux, although many observers believe that the property deserves First Growth status along with Château Léoville Las Cases. Those who attended the dinner weren't disappointed whilst tasting the 1995, 1999, 2001 and 2003 vintages with the 1995 scoring best with most guests. The 2001 and 2004 vintages of Château Palmer's second label Alter Ego also received a positive response. Wines can be purchased at auction. - JUDY SARRIS

Thursday, 10 April, 2008, 11:53 AEST

Greek wines

The Gourmet Traveller WINE crew stumbled across some interesting wines at a tasting held at Perama, our favourite Greek restaurant in the Sydney suburb of Petersham. Wines from Kir-Yianni are being distributed by Douglas Lamb Wines (1300 667 812) and include: Akakies, a rosé from Amyndeon, one of the most promising AOC zones in north-western Greece; Tesseris Limnes, a blend of chardonnay and gewürztraminer; a couple of xinomavros from AOC Naoussa, including Ramnista; and the super-blend Dyo Elies. - JUDY SARRIS

Wednesday, 19 March, 2008, 08:21 AEST

WINE mag goes to Mad Cow

Last night, Gourmet Traveller WINE popped into Mad Cow, the new steak house recently opened by Justin Hemmes at his new Ivy complex at 330 George St in Sydney. The 500 gram, dry-aged strip loin was delicious - especially washed down with a spot of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The menu created by Peter Doyle also provides plentiful choices for non-meat eaters, and we were more than pleased with the reasonable price of the Gosset NV Grand Rose we sipped on before dinner. - JUDY SARRIS

Monday, 18 February, 2008, 10:20 AEST

Best New Wine Writer

The winner of Gourmet Traveller WINE's New Writer Award was announced at the Wine Press Club Macquarie Bank Sydney Royal Wine Show Trophy Winner's Lunch held on Friday, February 15 at Star City Pyrmont. Congratulations to winemaker Tim Shand who, although he recently spent time working vintage at Chateau Margaux, opted to write about the attributes of cask wine. His story will be published in the April/May issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE, on sale April 14, 2008. - JUDY SARRIS

Monday, 18 February, 2008, 10:00 AEST

A Taste of New Zealand

Lovers of Kiwi wines should make a bee line for New Zealand in A Glass 2008 to be held this week in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. There will be more than 100 different producers showcasing around 400 wines from 9 top NZ wine regions. It's an event not to be missed. - JUDY SARRIS

Tuesday, 12 February, 2008, 15:14 AEST

Sydney Royal Wine Show Gongs

A few of Gourmet Traveller WINE's regular contributors have, recently,  been incommunicado while judging at the Sydney Royal Wine Show. The results of all the swirling, sniffing and spitting will be revealed at the 2008 Macquarie Bank Sydney Royal Wine Show Awards Dinner to be held on Thursday night.  Gourmet Traveller WINE will attend the awards, and you can be among the first to discover who got the gongs by logging onto www.sydneyroyalshows.com.au from 9am on Friday, February 15. - JUDY SARRIS