GT reviewers pick the best restaurant dishes of 2019

Potato salad,

Pilot, Ainslie, ACT

Understatement is the word at Pilot. What’s listed as roast chook turns out to be the DIY chicken sandwich of suburban fever dreams, while the potato salad is anything but basic. Creamed potato, crisp radish and celery, a spiral of translucent green apple, chives. Freshness, crunch and a whole lot of clever combined. David Matthews

Oyster mushrooms with wakame sabayon,

Franklin, Hobart, Tas

Oyster mushrooms from Tunnel Hill are a regular feature on Analiese Gregory’s menu at Franklin and it’s easy to see why. Char-grilled and teamed with a frothy braised wakame and sabayon, they bring levels of velvety texture and rich umami flavour that border on the sublime. Michael Harden

Venison tartare with fermented celeriac, roasted sesame and garlic,

Joy, Fortitude Valley, Qld

It’s testament to the meticulous approach taken at this tiny 10-seater that three types of garlic feature in its take on venison tartare. Golden, lightly bitter garlic chips bring bite, fermented smudges of black garlic add sweetness and funk, and delicate society-garlic flowers ensure everything looks as good as it tastes. The interplay between the raw venison, earthy sesame and translucent, lightly fermented celeriac confirms this tartare as a chart topper. Fiona Donnelly

Fresh house-made noodles with offal,

Super Ling, Carlton, Vic

Michael Li’s lunchtime noodles are a holy trinity of skill, price and flavour. The noodles, laminated for texture and just $13, are made daily with the choice of five versions, from eggplant to offal. Go the latter (you choose two from shin, tripe, ear and tongue), and pair with a side of Chinese doughnuts. Michael Harden

Fresh citrus and honey frangipane with ricotta and hibiscus leaf,

Pipit, Pottsville, NSW

Ben Devlin’s use of local seafood is astute, his work with vegetables from Northern Rivers growers impressive. But a simple dessert of honey frangipane cake cooked to order in a skillet is most memorable. Served warm with a scoop of ricotta and fresh seasonal fruit, it’s the rare dessert that combines comfort with good sense and confidence. More please. David Matthews

Blue manna crab toast,

Le Rebelle, Mount Lawley, WA

This two-bite wonder has taken over my Instagram feed, and for good reason. The combination of crabmeat, mayo and pickles on fat brioche fingers is as gratifying as it is simple. The perfect spirit dish for Le Rebelle’s brand of fun, new-school French. Max Veenhuyzen

Tuna with green apple and artichoke,

Hentley Farm, Seppeltsfield, SA

At Hentley Farm in the Barossa, chef Lachlan Colwill achieves an ideal textural balance with a fatty cut of tuna belly piqued by rich, savoury kangaroo garum. Artichoke purée and crisp fried artichoke tendrils add warming notes, with Granny Smith apple shavings refreshing the mix with bright acidity. It’s the best twist yet on a rare tuna dish Colwill has toyed with for many years. David Sly