As if Ada Lane wasn’t enough of a diner drawcard, along comes Biànca, all rosy-hued terracotta tiling, soft lighting and come-hither charm. Sure it’s a scene, but it’s so approachable. Cool Italia doesn’t take itself or its Europop backing track too seriously, speedy service simply adding to the buzz. Covetable bottles arrayed around the room underline the breadth and depth of the cellar here. And there’s lots to pore over at the bar, too, including a stellar line-up of Italian gins. Breads pulled from the wood-fired oven are a standout. Ditto those sage anchovy flavour explosions from the fritti section. Hit the antipasti hard, then round it out with something from the grill; perhaps a butterflied blue mackerel fillet slathered with herby salmoriglio. Or pile into house-made pasta. The paccheri al pomodoro is a signature. Dolce should not be snubbed. There’s room in everyone’s life for a retro lemon sorbet enchantingly served in its skin over ice.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Cieran Murphy
